Where to eat ribollita in Florence. The best 8 restaurants chosen by Gambero Rosso

Jan 24 2024, 15:27
Among the cornerstones of typical Florentine cuisine, ribollita is a hearty winter dish derived from peasant tradition, made with stale unsalted bread, black cabbage, savoy cabbage, and beans

Ribollita, meaning "reboiled" in Italian, is the secret to this excellent traditional soup suitable for cold months and vegetarians. In the past, it was prepared on Fridays, a lean day, combining various leftovers. To enhance its flavor, black cabbage was used, which had undergone one or more frosts, making it sweeter. It's not difficult to prepare at home; you just need some time. However, the experience of eating it out is incomparable. Moreover, high-speed trains allow you to reach Florence quickly, in 1 hour and 40 minutes from Milan and 1 hour and 20 minutes from Rome. Here are the best 8 restaurants chosen by Gambero Rosso.

Where to eat ribollita in Florence

Trattoria Baldini

Trattoria. In a convenient central location, with a centuries-old history, the atmosphere may be a bit dated and informal, but the substance is there. Traditional Florentine and Tuscan cuisine takes center stage, with dishes based on seasonal ingredients executed with skill. Ribollita is one of their specialties, prepared following the original recipe. The menu also includes classic crostini, penne strascicate, arista with potatoes, fried rabbit, tripe, and succulent Florentine steak. The wine list, though not extensive, features mostly carefully selected regional references.

Trattoria Baldini – via Il Prato, 96/R – 055 287663 – www.trattoriabaldini.com

Il Bollito e lo Stracotto

Street Food. Giacomo Trapani's shop, located on the first floor of the Mercato Centrale in the San Lorenzo district, offers typical Florentine specialties in a sandwich or on a plate. Open from 9 in the morning until midnight, it serves dishes like peposo (stew cooked in red wine and spices), lampredotto, francesina (boiled beef "remade" with onions and tomato sauce), pappa al pomodoro, "mythical" boiled, tripe Florentine, and ribollita. Some side dishes are also available.

Il Bollito e lo Stracotto – piazza del Mercato Centrale via dell’Ariento – 055 2399798 – www.mercatocentrale.it/firenze

Il Borro Tuscan Bistro

Bistrot. Centrally located and multitasking, ideal for aperitifs, lunch, or dinner, as well as for enogastronomic purchases. Created by the Ferragamo family, it features tasteful spaces and atmosphere, offering a menu primarily based on organic products from their estate in the Arezzo countryside. The seasonal menu includes liver terrine, fig mustard, and Vin Santo; boiled tongue with horseradish potato salad; ribollita; duck stew pappardelle; beef peposo with mashed potatoes and spicy chicory. Good selection of bread, focaccia, and homemade desserts. A well-curated drink list is available.

Il Borro Tuscan Bistro – lungarno degli Acciaiuoli, 80/R – 055 290423 – www.ilborrotuscanbistro.it

Da Burde

Trattoria. Just outside the city center, a Tre Gamberi restaurant in the 2024 Restaurants of Italy guide run by the Gori brothers, Paolo (in the kitchen) and Andrea (sommelier, in the dining room). Enter the old grocery-bar, then move to the back. The menu is thoroughly Tuscan with dishes like farro soup, spicy cart driver's spaghetti, ribollita, pot roast, peposo, mixed boiled meats, and Florentine steak. Traditional desserts, starting with the typical zuccotto. The wine list is extensive with honest markups, featuring many labels on display in the dining room and on shelves, along with valuable and flexible recommendations. Reservation is recommended, considering it's only open for lunch (except on Fridays).

Da Burde – via Pistoiese, 154 – 055 317206 – www.vinodaburde.com

La Casalinga dal 1963

Trattoria. A historic and typical family-run establishment in the heart of the Santo Spirito district, with a small and pleasant outdoor seating area where house wine is still served. Informal and cheerful hospitality for a journey into Tuscan cuisine with crostini, fett'unta with beans, ribollita, pappardelle with black cabbage pesto, tripe Florentine, and liver with sage. The menu also offers a wide selection of meats, poultry, and seasonal vegetable dishes, all tasteful, plentiful, and perfectly seasoned. Finish with cantucci with Vin Santo and tiramisu. Regional wine cellar.

La Casalinga dal 1963 – via dei Michelozzi, 9/R – 055 218624 – www.trattorialacasalinga.it

Trattoria Mario dal 1953

Trattoria. Located near the Mercato Centrale, recognizable by the line at the entrance. A classic tavern counter, purple memorabilia (the "home team"), and a rich and sincere kitchen with all the classics of tradition, including well-prepared ribollita, maccheroncini with ragu, tripe Florentine, boiled lampredotto served with green sauce, and Florentine steak. The meal starts with cold cuts and crostini and ends with Prato biscuits soaked in Vin Santo. Important note: the restaurant is closed in the evenings.

Trattoria Mario dal 1953 – via Rosina, 2/R – 055 218550 – www.trattoriamario.com

Regina Bistecca al Duomo

Restaurant. In the space of a former historic bookstore, it impresses with tasteful furnishings, warm wooden atmosphere, antique paintings and prints on the walls, and a bookshelf hosting the "family" table. While the main attraction is the steak, cooked to perfection from different cuts of meat, the menu also features typical dishes such as crostini, ribollita, tripe and lampredotto, peposo, and even cod. Don't resist the dessert trolley, especially the zuppa inglese. The wine list includes quality Tuscan labels and fine Italian reds.

Regina Bistecca al Duomo – via Ricasoli, 14/R – 055 2693772 – www.reginabistecca.com

Al Tranvai

Trattoria. Easily accessible from the Santa Maria Novella Station, just a few minutes' walk away, it's a solid outpost of typical Florentine cuisine. The atmosphere is characteristic and lively, with a bar counter, essential furnishings and equipment, vintage photographs, and bottles on the walls. Liver pâté crostini and fried polenta precede bold and flavorful first courses, such as Chianti-style penne and ribollita. The second courses are a triumph of typicality, from peposo to kidney, from Florentine tripe to remade boiled and fried brain. Homemade desserts of the day are served. The wine cellar offers bulk wine and quality labels.

Al Tranvai – piazza T. Tasso, 14/R – 055 225197

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