Where to eat pasta, potatoes, and provola in Naples. The 8 best restaurants chosen by Gambero Rosso

A classic sauté of carrot, celery, and onion, plus diced potatoes, broth, some cherry tomatoes, salt and pepper to taste, "mixed" pasta, provola (some use smoked), a sprinkle of grated Parmesan (possible additions: bacon, a cheese crust, a piece of ham rind, basil, or rosemary). Then the "rest," with the stove off, so that it becomes beautifully "right" to the point that you can almost eat it with a fork. Who would have thought that pasta, potatoes, and provola, such a simple (and economical!) preparation, would become a cult dish for foodies, and yet... Here are the 8 best restaurants chosen by Gambero Rosso.

Where to eat pasta, potatoes, and provola in Naples

Ieri, Oggi, Domani

Trattoria. The sign is dedicated to the eponymous film directed by Vittorio De Sica in 1963, later an Oscar winner in 1965. Contemporary-style environments studied in every detail provide the backdrop for a culinary journey that moves on the tracks of "yesterday" and "today" with great palate enjoyment. For example, smoked pasta and potatoes with Provolone del Monaco and basil may be paired with tubettoni in dentex soup, squid, Piennolo cherry tomatoes, and lemon. The menu also includes good pizzas. Wine list with labels for all budgets. Affordable lunch menus, starting from 7.50 euros.

Ieri, Oggi, Domani – via Nazionale, 6 – 081 206717 – www.ierioggiedomani.it

La Locanda Gesù Vecchio

Trattoria. Two locations (the other is on the same street, at number 4), both with two service shifts, the first at 7 pm and the second at 9:30 pm. Some may frown a bit, but it seems like a venial sin in the face of the pleasantness of the evening, marked by a pleasant convivial atmosphere and a high-level offering. Among the highlights are mozzarella in a carriage, bean and escarole soup, Genovese ziti, mixed pasta with potatoes, smoked provola, and grated Parmesan, eggs in Purgatory, cod in a casserole. Many options suitable for vegetarians and celiacs. Craft beers and good wines to accompany.

La Locanda Gesù Vecchio – via G. Paladino, 26 – 081 4613928 – www.lalocandagesuvecchionapoli.it

Mimì alla Ferrovia

Restaurant. Conveniently located near the Central Station, managed by the Giugliano family, it is a reliable address with more than 80 years of history, always a promoter and disseminator of Neapolitan gastronomic culture. The menu includes all the classics, some not easy to find elsewhere: stuffed 'mbuttunato pepper, eggplant parmigiana as tradition dictates, spaghetti with real clams, mixed pasta with potatoes, provola, and guanciale, fried cod, meatballs in ragù. Some fun deviations are also present, such as the "taco bao" with Genovese sauce. Good drinks. Takeaway service available.

Mmì alla Ferrovia – via A. D’Aragona, 19 – 081 5538525 – www.mimiallaferrovia.it

Nennella

Trattoria. Since 1949, the year of opening thanks to Elisabetta Vitiello (the "nennella" in the sign) in the heart of the Spanish Quarters (while today it is in a new location), the table celebrates Neapolitan culinary tradition, both in recipes and in the authenticity of ingredients. The menu always includes pasta and potatoes with provola, bacon, cherry tomatoes, basil, and Pecorino Romano. To complete the meal, sausage and friarielli, meatballs in ragù, and zucchini alla scapece. Desserts are also in line, from babà to pastiera. Very reasonable prices, a menu at 15 euros. Note: no reservations are accepted.

Nennella – piazza Carità, 22 – 081 414338 – www.trattorianennella.it

Osteria della Mattonella

Trattoria. A cozy setting with a few closely arranged tables, a beautiful original floor, wooden beams on the ceilings, antique Vietri-style tiles on the walls, shelves filled with bottles, now passionately managed by Massimo Marangio. From the kitchen, overseen by Mrs. Antonietta, Massimo's mother, come potato croquettes, smooth penne with Genovese sauce, spaghetti alla puttanesca, pasta and potatoes with provola and (plenty of) grated Parmesan, lentils and broccoli, Luciana-style octopus, and braised beef. The house wine is drinkable, or you can choose from a quality selection of regional labels.

Osteria della Mattonella – via G. Nicotera, 13 – 081 416541 – www.osteriadellamattonella.com

RestaQmme

Restaurant. A trendy venue, which in the 2024 edition of the Ristoranti d'Italia guide received the Future Tradition award. The owner, Genny Parlati, entrusted the kitchen to the young chef Magdalena Buczynska, who with a skilled hand and the right touch of creativity gives a very personal and original reinterpretation of Neapolitan traditional dishes. Among these, stand out the minestra maritata (with 27 types of green leafy vegetables, 4 types of meat, and their broths) served with Neapolitan tarallo, "La Leggenda" (mixed pasta, potatoes, provola, guanciale, and lobster in butter), and the slice of the catch of the day with Controne bean potage, yellow Pacchetelle, and emulsion of aromatic herbs.

RestaQmme – via Lucilio, 11 – 342 5268598 – facebook

Pizzeria Salvo

Pizzeria. About 6 years ago, the Salvo brothers opened their branch in Naples city (the main house is in San Giorgio a Cremano), a modern place near the Caracciolo waterfront. Here, in addition to offering their fantastic pizzas (remember that they received the recognition of Three Slices in the Pizzerie d'Italia 2024 guide), they offer fragrant and appetizing fried foods. Among many, the fried pasta and potato frittata with mixed Gragnano Igp pasta, potatoes, 24-month aged Parmigiano Reggiano Dop, raw ham, and pepper could not be missing. A good glass of wine or a bottle from the extensive list is recommended as an accompaniment.

Pizzeria Salvo – Riviera di Chiaia, 271 – 081 3599926 – www.pizzeriasalvo.it

Umberto since 1916

Restaurant. It belongs to the Historical Places of Italy association. In the rooms, decorated in a classic style, there are many vintage photos but also contemporary works of art. The proposal ranges from good wood-fired pizzas to seasonal dishes, from options for celiacs and vegetarians to dishes of pure Neapolitan origin. Among the latter, stand out the Controne bean soup, the miniature version of potato gattò, broken ziti with Genovese sauce, "mescafrancesca" (mixed pasta) with potatoes, provola from Agerola, and red sausage from Castelpoto (Slow Food Presidium), cod, and Nonna Ermelinda's meatballs in three versions (fried, baked, and steamed). Wines up to the mark.

Umberto dal 1916 – via Alabardieri, 30 – 081 418555 – www.umberto.it