If you visit Bari, a seaside city that has its charm even in winter, one of the things to do, in our opinion, is to get lost in the characteristic alleys of the Old Town where it is not uncommon to come across ladies making handmade orecchiette with quick and skillful gestures using a simple knife. You cannot resist buying at least a little to take home to cook with ragu or turnip greens. Another delicacy to put in your suitcase is taralli, a delicious snack ideal for an aperitif or a mid-morning snack. These are just two examples of the many delicacies of Bari's gastronomy, among which broad beans and chicory plays a leading role.
Where to eat 'fave e cicorie' (broad beans and chicory) in Bari
Osteria Le Arpie
Trattoria. In a characteristic street of Bari Vecchia, a valid sign with welcoming environments, with beautiful stone floors, rustic wooden furnishings, and, when the weather allows it, outdoor tables. The cuisine has its roots in tradition, drawing on the rich basin of local products (extra virgin olive oil, legumes, meats, vegetables, cold cuts, and so on) and incorporating judicious creative touches. You will find broad bean and chicory flan with crumbled tarallo and chili pepper aromas, but also broad beans and chicory with Altamura bread. Drink house wine and Apulian labels.
Osteria Le Arpie – vico Arco del Carmine, 2 – 080 5217988 – www.osterialearpie.com
La Cecchina
Ristorante. Inside an ancient palace in Bari Vecchia, in suggestive spaces with barrel vaults and stone walls, an address that stands out from the average for its culinary offering that combines territorial dishes with original ideas always well-centered. On the menu, marinated mackerel with beets and mint, calamarata with braised octopus, broad bean and chicory puree with friggitelli peppers and Laterza bread chips, braised beef with Primitivo wine. The wine list focuses on Apulian companies, especially organic and little-known realities, but there are also interesting references from the rest of Italy.
La Cecchina – piazza Mercantile, 31 – 080 5214147 – www.ristorantebarivecchialacecchina.it
Est!
Wine Bar. A real gem in the heart of the city, ideal for spending an evening in a convivial and relaxed atmosphere, with background music. The selection of labels is very wide, with a particular focus on natural wines, and includes regional, Italian, and international references. To accompany the glasses, quality cured meats, dairy products, and cheeses and really good "cooked" dishes, to be chosen from a menu that changes almost daily. Among the options, broad bean puree with sautéed chicory is rarely missing, and there are many tantalizing vegetable-based dishes, plus perfectly cooked meats.
Est! – via G. Toma, 81 – 080 9904796 – www.vineriaest.com
La Locanda di Federico
Trattoria. The location is very pleasant, overlooking the beautiful medieval (and pedestrian) square in the heart of Bari Vecchia, with cozy indoor spaces, brick vaults, wooden furnishings, and terracotta floors. The cuisine moves on the tradition/creativity track, with convincing results. On the menu, "Tradizione murgiana" (Martina Franca capocollo with buffalo ricotta mousse and podolico caciocavallo waffle), "Antichi sapori" (broad beans and chicory with spicy soppressata, taralli, and cardoncelli mushrooms), "Teneri incontri" (tender pork with Murgia truffle potato cream). Drinks well.
La Locanda di Federico – piazza Mercantile, 63 – 080 5227705 – www.lalocandadifederico.com
Terranima
Ristorante. Terra (earth) and anima (soul), i.e., a refuge for the body and spirit. In the outdoor courtyard or in the indoor hall, what reigns on the table is the very short supply chain, for meats from "free" farms, vegetables from nearby fields, cheeses made with "bruna" milk, traditional cured meats (first and foremost the Martina Franca capocollo). Starters range from raw seafood to seasonal vegetables, and then go on to tiella with rice, potatoes, and mussels, orecchiette with turnip greens, broad bean and chicory puree, stuffed peppers. Bread and pasta are homemade, as are the desserts. Local wines.
Terranima – via N. Putignani, 213 – 080 5219725 – www.terranima.com
Tipica
Trattoria. Simplicity and substance are the main characteristics of this place, where you can come with the certainty of finding friendliness and a valid proposal of cuisine, Bari and non, at very honest prices. It starts with dairy products, cold cuts, and meatballs in sauce, continues with orecchiette with ragu, rice potatoes and mussels, broad beans and chicory, Bari-style pork chops, and bombette. For those who want something more delicious, there are fried panzerotti and pizzas. Among the desserts, absolutely do not miss the "sporcamuss". In the cellar, beers and some wines allow for the right pairings.
Tipica – strada Santa Caterina, 25/B – 347 7772298 – www.tipicabari.it
La Uascèzze
Trattoria. The sign, which refers to a Puglian dialect term that identifies a situation of cheerful conviviality, frames the philosophy of this establishment well in a pedestrian area in the heart of the city, a few meters from the Church of San Nicola. Stone walls and floors, wooden tables, it is the right place to take a journey through the typical scents and flavors of Bari: homemade taralli and preserves, tiella with potatoes rice and mussels, chunks of donkey in sauce, chickpea soup, broad beans and chicory puree with pork sausage. To wash it all down, house wine or some good bottle.
La Uascèzze – vico Sant’Agostino, 2 – 080 5236023-320 6284295 – www.lauascezze.com
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