What do sommeliers drink at Christmas?

Neri Cantina & Cucina – Zurich, Switzerland

''For Christmas in my household in France, dinner is taken very seriously, as is the wine that goes with it – we always have a five course meal; two starters, one main, cheese and a dessert," shares Zachary Levy, manager of Zurich's award-winning Neri Cantina & Cucina. "This year we will be starting with something a bit niche, the Bee Tree 2019, an exceptional 100% Pinot Meunier Rosé Traditional Method, from Sussex in England, an upcoming wine region, this wine competes with the best of Champagne, for but a fraction of the price."

"Next," he continues, "a powerful white wine, something with acidity and creaminess, we will be drinking Grappoli del Grillo 2020 from Marco de Bartoli, a clean and quite frankly incredible natural wine from the western shores of Sicily. For the main course we will be indulging in one of Italy’s hidden gems, Lessona 2017 from Proprietà Sperino. From the northernmost reaches of Piemonte, this is a different side to Nebbiolo – elegant with softer tannins than its bigger brothers in Barolo, but still packing the punch that one longs for from Nebbiolo."

After this Anglo-Italian leg of the drinking, there then follows a trip to France.

"To go with our cheese, we will be drinking something from our neck of the woods, a Vin Jaune 2007 from Domaine Overnoy – if you haven’t tried it yet, you better get your act together," suggests Levy. "Maybe after that a little espresso corretto fernet, but we’ll see how we feel."

Roscioli – New York City, USA

The North American outpost of a legendary Roman restaurant, Roscioli won Tre Bottiglie from Gambero Rosso this year – one of the minds behind its wine list is Hugo Wai.

"My friends and I usually don't go home for the holidays, so we all stay in New York, and since none of us really celebrates a traditional Christmas, we go to a hot pot spot in Flushing every year," says Wai. "To pair with something so rich in umami and so savoury, hot, spicy, and numbing, I need something that'd clean my palate quick! I'd say for this Christmas, I am drinking a ton of Lambrusco, specifically Max Brondolo's Podere Sottoilnoce. His Rosato bottling, called Cattabrega, is 100% Uva Tosca and is full of life, acidity, fresh red fruits – a perfect pairing with hot pot!"

Tappo Enoteca – London, UK

Although he says that he will start celebrations on the 25th with Champagne Bruno Paillard N.P.U. 2008, Massimo Lopez, owner of Notting Hill's Tappo Enoteca, sticks to a Piemontese classic to complement a traditional British Christmas Dinner: "I will be drinking Gaja Barbaresco Costa Russi 2004 with turkey – the wine's structure, acidity and flavour profile complement the different elements of a traditional turkey meal."

Figo – Copenhagen, Denmark

"Bubbles are Ca' del Bosco Anna Maria Clementi 2009," says Shan Milleri, second generation owner of Copenhagen's acclaimed wine bar Figo.

Milleri says that he'll also be sampling the aforementioned Franciacorta producer's still white Curtefranca Bianco 2015 in Magnum – an 80% Chardonnay and 20% Pinot Bianco blend which has, since the 2017 vintage, has been renamed as 'Corte del Lupo'. He will also be opening up a 1989 of Gaja Sauvignon Blanc, also in Magnum.

As for the reds, Millerei opts for 2008 Tenute Cisa Asinari Marchesi di Gresy Martinenga Langhe Nebbiolo, 2007 Azienda Agricola San Giuseppe Brunello di Montalcino Stella di Campalto, 1990 Falletto di Bruno Giacosa Asili Riserva and a 2008 Le Vigne di San Pietro Amarone della Valpolicella Classico – all in Magnum. He also mentions a 2003 Talenti Brunello di Montalcino Riserva in Double Magnum for good measure.

For those perhaps slightly concerned/envious about the quantities of bottles, Milleri shares: "We always have many people for Christmas, hence the format sizes and the amount of wine!"

A16 – San Francisco, USA

Named after the road that connects Puglia to Campania, A16 now has several locations in California, with the original location opening on San Francisco's Chestnut Street in 2004. When it comes to the wines, co-owner and wine director Shelley Lindgren is very much in the driving seat, and there are several Italian wines on her Christmas list this year.

"Benanti's Lamorèmio Metodo Classico Brut Rosato is a wine that feels like the first toast of the season, shared with people you love, as the name suggests. Lean, racy, and beautifully lifted, it shows delicate notes of lemon blossom, green apple skin, rose petals, saline minerality, and toasted almond from its time on the lees. Its brightness and depth make it such a celebratory start/toast. Pair with baccalà and potatoes, and, if you’re feeling festive, a spoonful of caviar makes it sparkle even more."

Lindgren's next pick is the Bosco de’ Medici Pompeii 2021: "The profile is vivid and textural with lemon verbena, Sorrento lemon pith, crushed pumice, bergamot, and gentle herbal lift. It’s easy to want to pair it with coastal dishes like zuppa di pesce, linguine and clams, or a delicate crespelle with funghi and ricotta, where that volcanic energy can really shine."

To finish on a sweet note, Lindgren looks to Umbria: "Giampiero Bea’s Sagrantino Passito always feels rare and festive as the Sagrantino name suggests, with historic ties to Papal tradition."

"This style, once the primary way Sagrantino was enjoyed, highlights the grape’s natural structure and soulful depth," she continues. "Concentrated yet vibrant, it bursts with black fig, macerated plum, blackberry, cacao nib, and clove. The balanced tannins meet their match with panettone, dark chocolate budino, tiramisu, or aged cheeses – Moliterno al Tartufo, Gorgonzola Dolce, or a well-aged Pecorino Romano."