From Ostuni to Ceglie, in the Parco delle Dune Costiere. Far from the slick resorts catering to Italian actors and politicians is a rustic, autumnal Puglia, its trees laden with olives awaiting the first cold days before yielding their precious green and gold oil. This is the season to enjoy the flavors of traditional peasant dishes and cheeses.
Landscapes of Puglia
The culture of olive trees
These are monumental olives, counted and carbon-14 dated, often supported with tufa blocks. They bear witness to the undaunted ability of thisplant to thrive, twisting itself in unexpected directions. Corrado Rodio is in charge of protecting the memory and presence of an ancient olive mill with visible strata that help us understand the different methods of extracting oil through the ages, from the pre-Roman Messapic civilization up to the Renaissance. Rodio himself also produces a fascinating extra-virgin olive oil from the ancient trees of ogliarola salentina and a monocultivar of coratina from a more modern grove. He offers a mini oil-tasting course. Further along, visitors can stop to eat in the courtyard of the Masseria Il Frantoio, with its white-washed walls, cascading flowers, and stone-paved floor. Here the proprietor, Armando, introduces his guests to the zone and its dishes, all based on his land’s produce: homemade pasta, vegetables from the house garden and fruit from the 17th- century citrus groves. Above all, he exploits his knowledge of the science of wild products by producing an excellent liqueur based on herbs, berries and fruit.
Organic products: from fruit to cheese
Where to stop: from breakfast to dinner time
Cured meats: in the name of Capocollo from Martina Franca
Time for dessert: Puglia’s baked goods
Elisabetta De Blasi
Addresses
Where to sleep
Dimora Antonella | c.da San Benedetto | Ostuni (BR) | tel. 393 561 0182 | www.dimoraantonella.it | double room with breakfast 60-100 euros
B&B Sant’anna | via G.B. Caracciolo, 61 | Ceglie Messapica (BR) | tel. 333 397 8524 | www.bbsantannaceglie.it |double room with breakfast 70-130 euros
Where to eat
Botrus | via Muri, 26 | Ceglie Messapica (BR) | tel. 0831 377817 | www.botrus.it | average price 45 euros without wine
Giardini 36 | via Giardini, 36 | Cisternino (BR) | tel. 080 2471829 | average price 20 euros without wine
Masseria Il Frantoio | ss 16 km 874 | Ostuni (BR) | tel. 0831 330276 – 380 432 9301 | www.masseriailfrantoio.it | average price 50 euros without wine
(2 forch.) Ristorante Cielo | Relais La Sommità | via S. Petrarolo, 7 | Ostuni(BR) | tel.0831.305925 | www.lasommita.it | average price 80 euros without wine
Where to shop
Masseria Aia Antica | c.da San Benedetto Piccolo | Ostuni (BR) | tel.0831.308293 – 333.3702506 | always open
Masseria Fragnite | via Ceglie-Ostuni, 102 | Ceglie Messapica (BR) | tel 0831.376365 | www.fragnite.it
Azienda Apistica Alveus | via Castellana zona B/2 | Martina Franca (TA) | tel. 080.4324034
I giardini della Grata | coop. Bio Solequo | via Custoza, 20 | Ostuni (BR) | tel.0831.305303
Wine
Cantina Albea | via Due Macelli, 8 | Alberobello (BA) | tel 080 4323548 | www.albeavini.com | guided visits – reserve ahead
Tenute Girolamo | via Noci, 314 | Martina Franca (TA) | tel. 080 4402088 | www.tenutegirolamo.it | guided visits – reserve ahead
Vini Classici Cardone | via Martiri della Libertà, 32 | Locorotondo (BA) | tel. 080 4312561 | www.cardonevini.com
Extra-virgin olive oil
Olio Intini | c.da Popoleto | ALBEROBELLO (BA) | tel. 080 4325983 | www.oliointini.it | guided visit and tasting
Profumi Di Castro | Via Lecce di Speziale – fr. Speziale (BR) | tel. 080. 4810989 | www.profumidicastro.it
Cured meats
Salumi Martina Franca | s.da Tre Piantelle, 20 | Zona F |Martina Franca (TA) | tel. 080 4490533 | www.salumimartinafranca.it
Baked goods
Forno Allegrini | via Pisanelli, 14 | Ceglie Messapica (BR) | tel. 0831 383050 | www.allegrinitaly.com
Vegetables
Azienda Agricola Calemone | c.da Baccatani, 36 | Serranova di Carovigno (BR) | tel.0831.555807 – 333.4561929 | www.calemone.it