For a few years now, 'o' sole 'e Napule' has arrived to lighten the Po River Valley fog and cheer the meals of Milanese and tourists in love with pizza and the flavours of the Italian South. A trend that is proceeding apace thanks also to fine professionals - often with headquarters in Campania - who have brought their craft and creativity to the North. And all the delights of a rich and sunny tradition. Below are the best establishments according to the Pizzerie d'Italia 2023 guide plus a new list itan-style pizza in Milan.
True Neapolitan tradition elaborated with modern techniques. Fragrant and light, the pies are a true delight here, not least because of the toppings, made with fresh, high-quality ingredients. There are classic and gourmet pizzas, served sliced and topped raw, as well as veg variants.
Biga Milano - Pizzeria Contemporanea
In the name, the importance given to the dough, made with the biga starter and leavened 36 hours, for a light and digestible result. The extensive menu leaves us spoilt for choice (there are also pizzas baked in the padellino as well as veg options). It is worth starting with the fried appetisers and ending with the desserts.
Confine Pizza e Cantina
Francesco Capece and Mario Ventura, who come from Salerno and have two restaurants in their homeland, are experimenting with a modern approach to flavours in their Milan location near the Duomo (don't forgo the cream of potato, fiordilatte, pork sausage, parsley, Teggiano 'sciuscillone' sweet pepper chips and extra virgin monocultivar Itrana olive oil), and above all in terms of wine pairing. All this in a 500 square metre space with a wine cellar and social table downstairs. Also open for lunch.
An urban chic place for lovers of gourmet pies, very light and topped with high quality products. The offer travels between classics and less conventional creations, for those who want to have fun. Eyes open for the off-menu dishes and the 'luxury' section (oysters, fish tartare, caviar). French wines and bubbles.
Neapolitans (one minute in a wood-fired oven at 400 degrees and with well-measured toppings) but also focaccias baked in an electric oven (don't miss the one with pastrami), and steam-baked pastries, as well as the tasty 'cubotti'. It is one of the most popular pizzerias in town, thanks also to a cocktail pairing that makes heads turn.
The Giolina is with creamed violet aubergines, smoked provoke cheese from Agerola, Vesuvius piennolo red tomatoes, baked aubergines, 36-month Parmigiano Reggiano wafers, and fried basil. The Ghitina (all the pies end in -ina) is a Margherita with creamed roasted cherry tomatoes, fiordilatte from Agerola, semi-dried red date tomatoes, 24-month Parmigiano Reggiano, and fresh basil: Neapolitan doc crusts, plus gourmet burgers and natural wines.
Light, digestible and with medium rim: Giorgio Caruso's pizza (available at four other locations in the city) is made with semi-whole wheat flour and wholemeal flours from Italian and stone-ground soft wheat, little salt and leavening for 24 to 48 hours. There are many variations on the menu, as well as fried specialities, a few cold dishes and homemade desserts. Minimalist wine cellar.
Modus la pizza secondo Paolo De Simone
The dining room is elegant, like a restaurant, and there is also a delicatessen (Via Cesare Battisti 23). The focus is on the Cilento, from suppliers to flours from traditional local grains. The style is contemporary and there is a section dedicated to 'vegetable-based' pizzas. Plus, typical dishes (with home-made pasta). There is also a fun mixology department.
Also a café and pastry shop, this place is all about the great diva. The pizzas have a crispy rim and thin crust, the menu is concise and centred. For amateurs, the 5 Onion Consistencies (cream, fermented, crispy, burnt, in mayonnaise plus fiordilatte). Very good drinking situation.
Gino Sorbillo Lievito Madre al Duomo
If the Milanese are in love with Neapolitan wagon wheel pies, the 'blame' also lies with the histrionic maestro, who has literally colonised the capital (and the rest of Italy) with a variety of locations, each with its own peculiarity. Among the first is this highly successful branch in the shadow of the Madonnina, where there is no lack of Neapolitan menu highlights.