The revival of Abruzzo is driven by the new generation of winemakers: rebels connected to the LandThe revival of Abruzzo is driven by the new generation of winemakers: rebels connected to the Land

Following the focus on women in Chianti Classico, Eric Asimov, a food and wine critic at The New York Times, turns his attention to another Italian region. "To find wines of great value, look to Abruzzo," is the advice of the journalist, who sees a revival in this region thanks to young talents and winemakers who have successfully highlighted their land and indigenous grape varieties.

Montepulciano d'Abruzzo and Trebbiano

As Asimov recalls, Abruzzo has long been associated with Montepulciano d'Abruzzo, a red wine that was sold at very low prices for a long time with moderate average quality. However, in the last ten years, a small revolution has been observed with the arrival of a new "generation of ambitious farmers and winemakers dedicated to conscientious agriculture and meticulous winemaking," shaking up the Abruzzo wine scene.
With its nature as a region between the sea and the mountains, wild landscapes, and a farmer's spirit, Abruzzo is a wine-producing reality that hides several gems. "It produces some of the best whites in Italy, and its Cerasuolo d'Abruzzo, rosés dark enough to be light reds, are unique. Prices, with some notable exceptions, are still reasonable," writes Asimov.

The Old and the Young

Several wineries are contributing to giving new life to the region. A picture emerges of winemakers who have bet on local varieties to produce wines with great character, such as Cristiana and Antonio Tiberio of the eponymous company, producing Trebbiano d'Abruzzo Fonte Canale since 2011, "probably among the greatest Italian white wines." Another example is Andrea Ugolotti of Colle Florido winery, who "went his own way, producing pure and delightful wines in his small cellar," like his rosé made from Montepulciano, "gorgeous, full of salty minerality."

There are those who responded to a call from the land and explored its potential, like Francesco Cirelli, raised in Pescara, who bought his land in 2003 "eager for a connection with the land" and incorporates the use of amphorae prominently in the company's lineup.

Or Stefano Papetti, whose first harvest dates back to 2010 following his father-in-law's permission to cultivate a small plot on the De Fermo family estate. Among the names mentioned are also the pioneering companies that first introduced the region, such as Valentini or Emidio Pepe, whose company is now led by his granddaughter Chiara. A large number of winemakers who, in addition to being skilled producers, are ambassadors of Abruzzo wine.