The Pescheria – a Piscarìa in Sicilian dialect – is one of the ancient quarters of Catania’s historic centre that, despite the recent surge in trendy and modern venues drawing in crowds of tourists, has managed to preserve a core of genuine and unfiltered authenticity.
The charm of the Piscarìa
The chaotic atmosphere of this historic city market is a thing of beauty. Located in its current position – beneath the 16th-century tunnel around Piazza Alonzo Di Benedetto – since the 1800s, there are no designer signs, no eye-catching menus, no benches or stools for comfort. The charm of the Piscarìa lies in the stalls of the fishermen and butchers who vucìano (shout out) louder than the others to praise the quality of their goods. The beauty is found in the vivid colours of seafood offered on the street, eaten standing up with just a squeeze of lemon; in the succulence of cipollate (spring onions wrapped in fresh pork belly) roasted over embers; and in the horse meat meatballs, brushed with a delicious salmoriglio sauce made from oil, red wine vinegar, garlic and parsley, which gives this local specialty its unique flavour.
Friggitoria Popolare – Catania
New-generation venues
Yet, amid the raw authenticity of the area, not everything stands still. In recent years, a breath of fresh air has arrived thanks to young and modern ventures offering simple yet high-quality street food. One such place is Friggitoria Popolare, born from the successful collaboration between talented pizzaiolo Lele Scandurra (of L’Evoluzione Pizza) and entrepreneur Marco Timpanaro, already known for the acclaimed Scirocco Sicilian Fish Lab. At Friggitoria Popolare, the menu is an ode to the many faces of fried food: arancini (with alla norma, ragù, pistachio, cuttlefish ink, or swordfish and aubergine), frittatine di pasta, croquettes, mozzarelle in carrozza, and the star item: fried pizza. Closed or open, with classic dough, wholemeal, or ancient grains, and in about ten different variations – all delicious, all made with carefully selected ingredients. To drink: local Sicilian wines or a classic Spritz. For dessert: a cannolo or raviola di ricotta.
Scirocco Sicilian Fish Lab – Catania
Scirocco Sicilian Fish Lab, Timpanaro’s earlier venture, was something of a pioneer. A young and well-structured project, it quickly established itself as ambitious and promising in a market where often only rock-bottom prices win out. At Scirocco, tradition is celebrated with top-quality ingredients, thoughtful recipes, and expertly executed preparations. The menu is a pleasure to browse, with options including sandwiches, salads, arancini, frittatine di pasta, swordfish caponata, mixed fried fish, octopus salad, and fish couscous. Homemade preserves are also for sale on the shelves (stuffed olives with sun-dried tomatoes, artichoke caponata, tuna pâté). Even the beverages speak the local language. The young, friendly staff offer informal but attentive service.
– Scirocco Sicilian Fish Lab – p.zza A. Di Benedetto, 7 – Catania – www.sciroccolab.com
– Friggitoria Popolare – via Gisira, 2 – instagram.com/friggitoria_popolare
*foto di copertina instagram.com/sciroccolab
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