The leap in quality of the new Piwi wines across 15 labels

The new-generation grape varieties, the so-called “resistant” ones known by the acronym Piwi, have until now produced fairly mediocre wines. But the oenological landscape has evolved, and these grapes — the result of natural hybridisation — have begun to produce wines worthy of respect. A claim proven true by the 15 labels we tasted at Gambero.

Tasting the “new” Piwi: 15 labels

Nicola Biasi, winemaker and frontman of the “Resistenti – Nicola Biasi” network (winner of the Gambero Rosso Sustainable Viticulture award), says:
“Twenty years ago, Piwi varieties existed, but the wines weren’t good. Now things have changed. Being organic, biodynamic or using resistant varieties must be the means to achieve the best possible wine from a given territory.” Here is the field test to back up those words…

92
Natus ‘22
(Souvigner Gris)
Ritterhof
Caldaro (BZ)
Among the tastings, it stands out for its intense aromatic profile and surprisingly creamy, savoury mouthfeel. Warm tones of peach and hazelnut with a vegetal nuance on the nose precede a “tactile” palate, where fruit flesh and measured acidity give the sip texture and depth. It finishes with a long, pleasant salty-fruity trail.

92
Vin de la Neu ’23
(Johanniter)
Resistenti Nicola Biasi
Predaia (TN)
Its name refers to a vineyard 1,000 metres above sea level. Tasted as a preview, the new vintage smells of peach, pine resin and mountain herbs. The palate is supported by a balsamic freshness with juicy, defined fruit. The finish is of good length, with recurring minty notes and hints of exotic fruit.

91
Red Renitens
(Multivarietal)
Resistenti Nicola Biasi
Predaia (TN)
The red version of the Renitens project, tasted in preview, pleasantly surprised us. A wine with a multifaceted nose of red cherry, ripe strawberry, root notes and spices. The palate is equally compelling, offering juicy, sweet fruit that stretches into a long, convincing finish with light cocoa tones.

90
Patior ‘22
(Prior)
Ronco della Cava
La Valletta Brianza (LC)
On the nose, delicate hints of almond and cherry lie on a floral background of violet. The palate has good dynamism and tension, with clear notes of small red and black berries shaping a dry, streamlined mouthfeel. The sip closes on mineral and slightly spicy notes, making it an easy-going, carefree drink.

90
Gisla ‘22
(Souvigner Gris)
Ca’ da Roman
Romano d’Ezzelino (VI)
A skin-contact wine offering notes of candied citron and ginger, along with hints of honey, acacia flowers and freshly cut grass. The palate impresses with its distinct savoury character, giving momentum and depth to the sip, which ends clean, long, and satisfying.

90
Caliere ‘22
(Merlot Khorus and Merlot Kanthus)
Terre di Ger
Frattina di Pravisdomini (PN)
Ripe black fruit notes, particularly sour cherry and plum, blend with incense and cocoa. The palate is rich and muscular, rounded by sweet fruit and spicy nuances. The finish is long and clean, where spice and incense notes return.

89
Renitens
(Multivarietal)
Resistenti Nicola Biasi
Coredo-Predaia (TN)
The grapes (from various resistant varieties) come from six different territories and are combined into a single liquid voice. While the nose plays with balsamic tones and mountain flowers, the palate reveals notes of almond and basil. The sip has a lovely tension that leads to a mineral finish with balsamic and boxwood hints.

88
Spumante Brut ‘23
(Johanniter)
Soligo
Pieve di Soligo (TV)
A Charmat-method sparkling wine that smells of white-fleshed fruit and white flowers. It immediately evokes a high-quality Prosecco, especially on the palate, where fresh acidity leads into a green apple finish. Despite some similarities to Venetian sparkling wines, it maintains its own identity and coherence.

88
Mawi Rosso ‘21
(Cabernet Volos, Merlot Khorus)
Maculan
Breganze (VI)
A blend of two red Piwi varieties, offering an aromatic profile reminiscent of the herbaceous notes of Cabernet Franc, blended with hints of bitter roots and ripe red fruit. The palate is driven by a measured freshness, and while the tannins are slightly edgy, they give the sip structure.

87
Spumante dolce Resiliens
(Multivarietal)
Le Carline
Pramaggiore (VE)
The sweetness of this sparkling wine is well-balanced and never excessive, supported by acidity with citrusy tones. The nose is inviting and sugary: orange blossom, candied orange peel, apple pie, tarte Tatin. The finish brings out honey tones and a reminder of peach flesh macerated in wine.

86
Dolce Paola
(Multivarietal)
Da Pieri
Cinto Caomaggiore (VE)
A passito characterised by delicate sweetness. Both on the nose and palate, notes of lemon peel, mandarin, and candied ginger blend with hints of mint and orange blossom. The sip is glyceric, velvety and rounded, enlivened by citrusy freshness. It closes with notes of bitter almond.

85
Merlot Khorus ‘23
Tenuta Gambalonga
Cinto Euganeo (PD)
Hints of cocoa and spices emerge from a background of black fruits like blueberry, blackcurrant, and blackberry. Good alignment between nose and palate results in a sip where freshness enhances ripe fruit. However, the tannin imparts a slight bitterness at the end, somewhat slowing down the wine’s flow.

84
Rebellis ‘22
(Solaris)
Gianni Tessari
Roncà (VR)
Bringing the glass to the nose reveals the classic notes of a skin-contact wine. Apricot and dried orange give way to turmeric and a smoky finish. The palate shows hints of roasted tomato and sesame — a wine with warm tones that only lacks a bit more drive at the end to give the sip greater elasticity.

84
M’ama
(Soreli and Sauvignon Kretos)
Albafiorita
Latisana (UD)
In this Friulian white, vegetal notes and green citrus stand out against a backdrop of white flowers and mountain herbs. On the palate, balsamic freshness pushes a lean, agile sip towards a citrusy finish with notes of almond and mint. Savoury, pleasant, and well-structured.

84
BeeFour
(Multivarietal)
Ceste
Govone (CN)
BeeFour is a re-fermented wine dominated by citrus notes verging on herbaceous, with a hint of yeast in the background. The palate is fresh, with returns of lime, cut grass, and just-ripe green apple. The bubbles give it liveliness and a savoury touch, resulting in a simple, straightforward drink.