Distant traditions, a slow pace, unheard silences elsewhere merge in this truly exciting corner of the world. Burano, the best known with its colorful houses, Mazzorbo, and Torcello, green and lush: the three islands are part of a cooperative for territorial promotion. Always lands of fishermen but also of farmers and winemakers. To grasp their essence, one must land on Mazzorbo: here the Bisol family gave new life many years ago to an ancient estate, saving the dorona - an indigenous grape used to produce Venissa wine - from disappearance and restarting vegetable cultivation.
A pedestrian bridge connects Mazzorbo to Burano – the Bisol family also offers hospitality here with Casa Burano – colorful with its colorful buildings, famous for the lace school and for the bussolà, typical cookies. A little further north, with a short boat ride across the barene (lagoon lands submerged by tides), you arrive at Torcello, ancient and fascinating, with a rich archaeological heritage, which comes alive in summer with various outdoor venues. The islet has been the setting for over half a century for a mythical place like Locanda Cipriani (famous for seducing greats like Hemingway): the sign, at this moment, is closed for renovation works, which will continue for several more months. A short walk away is the ancient basilica of Santa Maria Assunta, known for its beautiful mosaics.
For those who want a naturalistic immersion in the waters of the lagoon, to visit the three islands, you can rely on local fishermen, guardians of the secrets of this incredible landscape. The San Marco cooperative of Burano offers various fishing tourism activities, an experience that can definitively reveal another face of Venice.
Venissa - Mazzorbo
Where to Eat on Mazzorbo Island
Venissa
In the restaurant of the Bisol family, Chiara Pavan and Francesco Brutto, two of the most talented chefs in our country, now reign in perfect harmony with the ecosystem. Sustainability wins here: plastic is banned, in the kitchen, almost exclusively vegetables grown in the estate's gardens and lagoon fish are used. The menu exalts the green soul and the concept of "environmental cuisine", between heart and technique. The result is surprising in blue crab with egg yolk and acacia flowers, in Swiss chard with pumpkin seeds and lagoon curry (created by drying the scraps and herbs from the estate), in ravioli with artemisia butter, pine nuts, and bitter herbs, and even in a dessert: spinach and mint soufflé, bay laurel ice cream. Wine list that also satisfies lovers of natural wines.
Venissa - fondamenta Santa Caterina, 3 – Isola di Mazzorbo - venissa.it
Osteria Contemporanea
Opened in 2015, this sign completes the offer of the Venissa wine resort – always at the helm of the kitchen, therefore, the couple Pavan and Brutto - with a proposal based on the best products of the lagoon: fish and vegetables collected in the garden a few meters from the restaurant. The menu (4 courses at 70 euros) and the wine list offer seasonal dishes such as the omelette of blennies or leek and smoke spaghetti.
Osteria Contemporanea - fondamenta Santa Caterina, 3 – Isola di Mazzorbo - venissa.it
Trattoria Alla Maddalena - Mazzorbo
Trattoria Alla Maddalena
A long-established trattoria, where you can enjoy seasonal Venetian cuisine, with a garden owned that supplies the vegetables that go into the dishes. The menu focuses on fish, but there are also some meat-based recipes. From goby risotto to frying (to taste, in spring, the moeche). On beautiful days, lunch is served on the terrace overlooking the canal.
Trattoria alla Maddalena - fondamenta Santa Caterina, 7b – Isola di Mazzorbo - www.trattoriamaddalena.com
Where to Eat on Burano Island
Gatto Nero - Burano
Gatto Nero
An institution in Burano with a family management that has alternated since 1965. Seafood cuisine is the peculiarity of the house, from shellfish soup to wonderful homemade spider crab tagliolini. Not to mention the crispy and tasty fried food and mixed grills. The menu is defined from day to day based on what is caught the night before.
Gatto Nero - via Giudecca, 88 – Isola di Burano - www.gattonero.com
Panificio Pasticceria Palmisano Carmelina
Panificio Pasticceria Palmisano Carmelina
A timeless shop, where you can find typical island biscuits, from bussolà buranello to doge squares, from esse di Burano to peverini, peculiar names and sweets that tell the historical recipe book protagonist of the production of this laboratory.
Panificio Pasticceria Palmisano Carmelina – via B. Galuppi, 335 – Isola di Burano - instagram.com/carmelinacookies_ve
Where to Eat on Torcello Island
Osteria Ponte del Diavolo - Torcello
Osteria al Ponte del Diavolo
A garden that is enchanting, a historic setting, and a well-kept cuisine that uses the best local products. Fish recipes dominate the scene in a menu that combines traditional dishes with some well-thought-out reinterpretations, from crudos to homemade pasta. You are pampered by professional service, even in moments of high tourist pressure. Popular for private events, it also has 9 boat berths.
Osteria al Ponte del Diavolo - Fondamenta dei Borgognoni, 10/11- Isola di Torcello - www.osteriaalpontedeldiavolo.com
Taverna Tipica Veneziana - Torcello
Taverna Tipica Veneziana
More than a tavern, it has the atmosphere of a festival: a lawn, wooden tables, deck chairs, and children's rides. A wild place to enjoy the lush nature of Torcello (bring mosquito repellent) without too many pretensions: a cold beer, a fry-up, or sardines in saor to take away, this is the right place for a reunion with friends or for a carefree aperitif. In the low season, the place closes at 7 pm, in summer the hours extend to 10 pm.
Taverna Tipica Veneziana - Fondamenta dei Borgognoni, 5 - Isola di Torcello -www.tavernaveneziana.it
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