by Fiorello Bianchi
Villa Feltrinelli, perched directly on the shores of Lake Garda, is a hotel with only 20 rooms, renowned for its undeniable prestige and reputation. Originally built as a holiday residence for the Feltrinelli family, it later became a refuge for Mussolini during his final months, was then abandoned, and finally restored by an American investor who fell in love with it (and who could blame him), deciding to renovate and bring it back to life.
The history, its illustrious literary guests, the park, the architecture, the rooms – all exude charm, elegance, class, and refinement. And inside, there's a hidden gem, not widely known (also because it’s only open for six months a year and accessible to non-residents for dinner only): the extraordinary kitchen led by chef Stefano Baiocco.
While the location might suggest a very traditional offering, there are plenty of surprises in store for those lucky enough to secure a table.
Who is Stefano Baiocco, the “fine engraver” of cuisine?
His is a cuisine that is absolutely personal and distinctive, where the vegetable component is always present, celebrated and elevated in every dish – you can feel the influence of a master like Pierre Gagnaire. Baiocco also possesses the skills of a fine engraver, working with excellent raw ingredients to create clearly defined and balanced forms, presenting dishes with great elegance and visual impact.
But the experience goes far beyond appearances. His tasting menu is varied, intriguing and captivates dish after dish, moving from sweet notes to bitter, from savoury to acidic to spicy – even within the same dish. Flavours are perfectly orchestrated and harmonised, building up in a layered, even pressing progression, full of nuance on the palate. It’s a cuisine that could be described as tailored, pushing the boundaries for those who appreciate edginess and boldness, while remaining (relatively) approachable for first-timers (the chef, in fact, remembers what his diners have previously ordered).
Spaghetti with coffee and sea lemons
What you eat at Villa Feltrinelli
It begins with canapés, served at a small table right on the lakeshore, gazing at the landscape in a setting of total silence, peace and serenity, before moving to one of the dining tables – always placed outdoors or indoors depending on the weather. Seating is limited and must also accommodate hotel guests.
For external visitors, the experience is entirely in the chef’s hands – a tasting menu that changes frequently, even within the same week, with complete carte blanche.
Il piatto dell'orto
Beyond his signature dish – spaghetti with coffee and sea lemons, where bitter and briny notes intertwine – you’ll find the surprising “garden dish”, featuring burdock roots, wild cherries, hops, rampion and much more, accompanied by a special vinaigrette and romesco sauce. Here, plant-based ingredients are exalted to the highest degree in freshness, beauty, and taste.
Other highlights include: snails, Arctic char, rabbit with oysters, aubergine with oregano ice cream and kvass, a roasted avocado raviolo with pea pod ceviche, passatelli with pigeon and liquorice broth – an unending series of surprises.
With apologies to Leopardi for the poetic licence: “in this vastness my thoughts are drowned, and to founder in this... lake is sweet to me.”
Villa Feltrinelli – Gargnano (BS) – via Rimembranza, 38 – 0356 798000 – ristorantevillafeltrinelli.com
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