The chef-farmer who wrote the history of fine dining on the Ligurian Riviera
Jun 13 2025, 13:12
Paolo e Barbara is an institution in Sanremo’s restaurant scene. She was already working front of house while still at school; he found himself—almost by force of circumstance—managing a prestigious restaurant due to family matters, and in the kitchen at 21
by Roberto Mostini
Paolo e Barbara is an institution in Sanremo’s restaurant scene. She was already working front of house while still at school; he found himself—almost by force of circumstance—managing a prestigious restaurant due to family matters, and in the kitchen at 21. So young that they’ve never really stopped being so, despite the challenging start back in 1987. Ever since then, they’ve remained devoted to their little jewel box of a restaurant, with just a few tables, located right in front of what is traditionally the finish line of the iconic Milan–Sanremo cycle race.
Who is Paolo Masieri, the chef-farmer symbol of Sanremo
A passion for the land and the sea has always been part of Paolo, who—besides being a born chef—has always run the family’s own farm. Today, there are at least four “rural” operations outside the restaurant. One plot lies in the rugged hinterland beyond Castelvittorio, in the upper Nervia Valley, where if you walk the paths and trails you can gather wild aromatic herbs with incredible scents from the ground or dry-stone walls. Then there are mountain-grown fruits and vegetables, vineyards both at high altitude—again in Castelvittorio—and further down, on the first hills above Ospedaletti, where he grows other vegetables and more vineyards, producing his own wines.
Paolo Masieri’s countryside and sea
Two plots of land with sea views: one from above, the other near the small beaches of this virtually unspoilt stretch of Riviera. Yes, the sea—the chef’s other great passion. He was among the first, in the early 1990s, to undertake serious research into seafood, either caught personally or sourced from trusted fishing boats. All day spent in the countryside, and then passing through Sanremo’s Porto Vecchio, he returns to the kitchen in the afternoon to prepare dishes infused with the aromas of the garden, herbs, and the sea. As a result, Paolo e Barbara is only open in the evenings.
It takes brains, mindset, technique and hard work—but none of this is a burden for Paolo. Over the years, he has codified some classic recipes while also creating more “spontaneous” and personal dishes, always enhancing the value of his own land’s produce—including meat. Meanwhile, Barbara brings to the dining room an experience that, as mentioned, dates back to the late 1980s. By now, nothing escapes her notice. Their approach to wine has evolved over time: no longer the opulent wine list of 20 or 30 years ago, when you could open the rarest bottles—even at reasonable prices. Today, it’s about research, about offering a strong quality-to-price ratio, with perhaps lesser-known labels (in addition to their own wines) that match their philosophy.
What to eat at Paolo e Barbara in Sanremo
Among the most significant and iconic dishes are the scabeccio of red mullet in sweet and sour garden vegetables and citrus confit, or the soft egg with sea urchins and fermented vegetables, and the prebuggiun raviolini with walnut pesto and curd. Meat option? The flavourful Fassona beef from the Maritime Alps with woodland aromas is excellent. And of course, Sanremo’s famous purple-head prawns are never missing. As for desserts, Barbara herself will personally offer the best advice to perfectly round off this wonderful gastronomic experience.Paolo e Barbara – Sanremo (IM) – via Roma, 47 – 0184 531653 – paolobarbara.it
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