The case of the “wrong” Cacio e Pepe that made everyone angry

It was Claudio Pica, president of Fiepet-Confesercenti of Rome and Lazio, who raised the issue of the “wrong” cacio e pepe, strongly criticising the recipe initially proposed by the British site. A dish which, in addition to spaghetti and pepper, included parmesan and butter —ingredients that do not belong in the authentic Roman recipe.

Just three ingredients

In response, the BBC published a new version signed by food writer Rachel Phipps, bringing the preparation of cacio e pepe back to its authentic form: just three ingredients, as tradition demands. “Three ingredients, three steps for a quick midweek dinner featuring the trendy cacio e pepe. Sharp pecorino combines with pasta water to create a creamy sauce that clings to the pasta,” writes the author in her article.

The new recipe

The updated recipe now calls for: 200 grams of spaghetti, 80 grams of finely grated pecorino, one teaspoon of freshly ground black pepper and salt. The preparation begins by cooking the spaghetti in salted water. Halfway through cooking, a little pasta water is reserved, which will later be used to form the emulsion. In a bowl, the pecorino and pepper are combined and gradually mixed with 2–3 tablespoons of hot water to create a thick paste, which is spread around the inside of the bowl.

Once the pasta is drained, it is left to rest for a minute, then transferred into the bowl, mixing quickly so that the heat melts the cheese and binds it to the spaghetti, using a little pasta water to achieve a creamy, glossy sauce.

The controversial note: cream isn’t ruled out

However, the BBC left in its “tips” section (additional advice at the end of the recipe) a suggestion that caused many to raise their eyebrows: the possible addition of cream.

It reads: “Use the finest grater you have to grate the cheese – ideally a small hand grater designed for zesting citrus fruits. The grated cheese and pasta cooking water should both be at room temperature so that they emulsify into a creamy sauce” and then, “It may take a little practice. If after a couple of attempts you’re still not getting the result you want, try adding a little double cream when you add the pasta to help the emulsion.”

A suggestion that, for many Italians — and not just purists — is considered outright heresy, as it completely distorts the dish, which relies on the balance between starch, the fat of the pecorino, and the pasta cooking water.