When it comes to Italian wine, it generally refers to the incredible biodiversity present in our vineyards. There are over 540 grape varieties currently cultivated in Italy, which is beneficial from the perspective of preserving a unique ampelographic heritage in the world, but it can be a challenge when translating this incredible variety into the commercial side.
Here, we try to focus on the former aspect, shining a small spotlight on a Ligurian native, Pigato. In reality, we could have combined this selection with the one made for Vermentino. Yes, because it seems that Pigato and Vermentino are practically the same grape.
Identical? No, of course not. Pigato would be nothing more than a mutation of Vermentino, following a long history of varietal migrations in which the paths of the two grapes are practically overlapping (Spain, Corsica, Liguria, Sardinia are the most important stages). It is still difficult to establish a close relationship (which the two grapes would also have with the Piedmontese favorite), as both morphological and genetic comparisons are made difficult by great intravarietal variability.
Until the mystery is unraveled, it suffices to know that the name Pigato would derive from the dialectal term "pigau," "stained," an adjective referring to the rust-colored dots found on the skins of fully ripe grapes. Its main cultivation area is the Ligurian Riviera of Ponente, where it is often vinified as a single varietal, but it can also be found in Valpolcevera.
Pigato with the best quality-price ratio
The following is a small list of Pigato wines that we have reviewed in Berebene 2024 by Gambero Rosso, the Guide that rewards wines with the best quality-price ratio: these are labels that you will find on the shelves of wine shops (including online ones) for less than 20 euros.
Villa Cambiaso's Pigato 2022, produced by Conte Cattaneo Adorno, has intense aromas of white flowers with youthful and herbaceous notes. The body is rich in minerality and savoriness. The company has only recently embarked on its production journey in the Genoese hinterland, in Serra Riccò, in Valpolcevera, an area once rich in crops and now undergoing a rebirth.
Luca Calvini's Riviera Ligure di Ponente Pigato 2022, intentionally light in color, presents intense aromas, while on the palate, it is polite and pleasant. Mediterranean scents of sage and rosemary accompany the flower, enhancing the freshness of the wine, which gathers much savoriness from the nearby sea. Luca Calvini's work is certainly not easy: the fragmented territory he has to deal with certainly complicates his task. However, the results are very good, thanks to his great skill.
Innocenzo Turco's Riviera Ligure di Ponente Pigato 2022 has fresh aromas of officinal herbs in a harmonious and elegant body. The sea breezes bring good savoriness, which, combined with the elegant fruity nuance, makes this wine of good character and identity.
Durin's Riviera Ligure di Ponente Pigato Braje 2022 achieves an interesting expression of maturity and harmony, releasing intense scents of yellow fruits and flowers on a bed of Mediterranean freshness. Antonio Basso continues his relentless work as a winemaker in the Arroscia Valley area, which extends from Albenga to the Ligurian Alps, a forge of biodiversity and precious cultivars.
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