The best bistros in Rome according to Gambero Rosso

Dec 14 2023, 13:00
Extended hours, signature cuisine, cocktail pairings, cosmopolitan ambiance: here are the bistros with Tre Cocotte featured in the Rome and the Best of Lazio 2024 guide

With an expression borrowed from French dining, in the Gambero Rosso guides, we indicate a very broad category of venues that have hybrid formulas, more complex than traditional restaurants: usually city places that combine a proposal of contemporary and seasonal cuisine with highly articulated beverage offerings, often centred around the cocktail bar, with extended hours that stretch beyond meal times, from lunch to aperitif and late-night. The setting is usually meticulously curated, with design that often evokes cosmopolitan atmospheres.

The best bistros in Rome

In the Italian capital, as in all major cities, there are many venues of this type, each quite different from the other, as can be seen from the signs awarded with the Tre Cocotte, the symbol that in the Rome and the Best of Lazio guide indicates the best bistros in Rome: right in the city centre, near the Trevi Fountain, there's Baccano, with its romantic and international atmosphere. A dreamy panorama for the bistro at The Pantheon Rome Iconic Hotel, the Divinity terrace by Francesco Apreda. Heading towards the Pinciano - Parioli neighbourhoods instead, there's the emblem of the Niko Romito galaxy, Spazio Bar e Cucina, offering a varied proposal from morning to evening.

Baccano

Baccano, the realm of chef Nabil Hadj Hassen, is located a stone's throw away from one of Rome's most iconic and tourist-frequented spots, the Trevi Fountain. Yet, just stepping through the door makes one feel transported to a trendy establishment in London or New York. The spacious and comfortable room, elegantly set, welcomes numerous guests seated at tables divided by partitions. However, there is not only style in this oasis of fine drinks and dining amidst an area dotted with forgettable signs. There is also considerable substance, on both the food and wine fronts.

From the partially open kitchen, overseen with expertise and maturity by a highly skilled chef, one of the kings of carbonara in the city (as seen in the special award Champions of Tradition), emerges some of the finest pasta you can taste in Rome. The carbonara, as mentioned, is truly unmissable, as well as the impeccably executed amatriciana. However, the extensive menu is much more than a tribute to Roman cuisine and is divided into various sections: apart from the classic appetisers, first and second courses, there are specific sections dedicated to Italian and global excellences, Spanish cured meats, buffalo mozzarella, burrata, foie gras, lobster, along with an oyster bar, a rarity in these parts, and a grill.

The number of dishes is substantial, and one might be overwhelmed by the choices, yet always assured of a satisfying selection due to the high quality of products and, as mentioned, the skilled hand in the kitchen. Alongside an extensive and elaborate wine list, there's a notable focus on mixology, with cocktails crafted with great skill. All this splendour, combined with the location, naturally comes at a price, which, however, isn't disproportionate to the Roman average. The service remains impeccable despite the high number of diners.

Baccano – via delle Muratte, 23 – Roma - baccanoroma.com

Divinity Terrace del The Pantheon Iconic Rome Hotel

The spectacular view is a definite highlight, but not the sole reason to treat oneself to a moment of luxury and relaxation at the Divinity terrace, the rooftop of The Pantheon Iconic Rome Hotel, a little paradise atop the Roman rooftops, perfect for a five-star aperitif, a 'scenic' bite, or a genuine dinner with a gourmet touch but in an easygoing manner compared to the Idylio restaurant on the ground floor. The terrace truly captivates with its diverse and top-notch offerings on all fronts: signature pizzas served by the slice or whole (here too, akin to the aforementioned Idylio, there's a maestro like Francesco Apreda leading the kitchen); variations on classics, where the red tandoori chicken and peppers shine as an example of Apreda's eclectic style - hailing from Campania but a citizen of the world, enamoured with Indian spices and aromas - alongside flame-seared Wagyu strips, iceberg lettuce, and ginger, griddled calamari, eggplant, and little gem lettuce; communal-style pasta dishes ranging from Roman specialties like the fusilli carbonara and gold amatriciana rigatoni to tagliolini with zucchini, provolone, and mint. Not to mention the array of carpaccios (salmon and fruit ceviche, tuna with peaches and horseradish, beef with tuna sauce and caper powder) and buffalo mozzarella (at 38°C with Parmesan cream or in a shared 'salt, oil, and fantasy' format), some of these also available in the tapas selection, perfect miniature versions to complement your drink.

In this regard, mixology stands shoulder to shoulder, providing moments of joy in itself. There are signature cocktails, mocktails, and equally well-executed classics. The same applies to the cellar, extensive, well-structured, and equally well presented by a relaxed yet precise service, perfectly in tune with the setting.

Divinity Terrace del The Pantheon Iconic Rome Hotel – via di Santa Chiara, 4a – Roma - thepantheonhotel.com

Spazio Niko Romito Bar e Cucina

 The multifaceted concept of the Roman venue by chef Niko Romito (recently making waves in the Capitoline hotel scene with the Bulgari group) is now a reference point in this part of the Pinciano district, a refined hub in the city for managerial figures. The offering - much like the environment - is diverse: starting from morning breakfast with a focus on the coffee bar, croissants, and pastries, especially around the counter area. At lunch and dinner, patrons sit at the delightful tables in the rear veranda, focusing on the menu curated by Gaia Giordano: a fully contemporary cuisine, yet versatile, ranging from high-end dishes such as cold tagliolini, langoustine, and green chilli (the chef's touch on pasta is truly special) or marinated amberjack, black bread, avocado, and basil, to more everyday options like salads (the homemade tuna in oil is excellent, paired with roasted onion and mixed greens).

Those with a sweet tooth will always find the signature items that have made the establishment famous: savoury pastries with various fillings - for instance, pork marinated in oil, mustard, and marinated cabbage - and the whole fried chicken to share. During the aperitif hour, top-quality cocktails are available, perhaps accompanied by the sumptuous "Sharing Space," a delightful experience that revisits the Italian appetiser, offering samplings of cured meats and dairy, such as Cuor di Paganica and buffalo mozzarella, along with fried options like breaded anchovies and bites like sweet bread with anchovies or mini pizzas with marinated zucchini. The service is friendly and professional, and there's an adequate selection of wines and beers.

Spazio Niko Romito Bar e Cucina – p.zza Verdi, 9e – Roma - spazionikoromito.com

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