The best amatriciana in Rome is served at a restaurant in the centre (away from the tourists). Here's where

A friend from Milan comes to visit and I take him to this little hole in the centre magically removed from the passage of the tourist herds that occupy the rest of it. Lilli has been around since 1969 in a cul de sac, they tell me it has also been renovated since it opened, but it is certainly not an atmospheric place. That's OK, because you look less at what is around you, and rather focus on what's on the plate. This is an amatriciana (bucatini) to die for, savoury and solid as befits a dish born of shepherds, to date for me the best I’ve eaten in Rome.

There is no doubt about the second course either: brisket of veal alla fornara which, believe me, is extraordinarily tasty, soft, delicious. We didn't get to the desserts this time round, but the tiramisu looked just right. With the appropriate house wine you spend the very right amount and leave singing songs, reconciled with this city.

Trattoria Lilli - Rome - Via di Tor di Nona, 23, 00186 Roma RM

by Paolo Manfredi