The 6 best Vernaccia di Oristano selected by Gambero Rosso

Probably the Vernaccia grape takes its name from the Latin vernaculum, which means "local", "native". This would explain the multiplicity of grapes that in our country go by this name. The most famous are Vernaccia di San Gimignano, in Tuscany, and Vernaccia di Oristano, in Sardinia, obtained from very ripe grapes, cultivated in the basin of the Tirso river. It is vinified with a system very similar to the Solera, the method used to produce Sherry, with which it has remarkable affinity. It takes over two years of aging in wood to acquire evolved characteristics, with hints of almond and a slightly bitter and acidic taste softened by the considerable alcoholic content (often over 15°). Of this wine, generally suitable for decent aging, there are several variants, more or less sweet. To the west of Macerata, in the Marche region, a particular sparkling wine is produced from red Vernaccia grapes, namely Vernaccia di Serrapetrona DOCG; it has an intense purple garnet color, with vinous and fragrant aromas, and a pleasant bitter and astringent finish. It can be dry, semi-sweet, or sweet, and the best results are obtained with sparkling wines made according to the traditional classic method.

Here we focus on the best expressions of Vernaccia di Oristano, which, recognized as DOC in 1971, is a small jewel of our ampelographic heritage, giving a wine with an ancient flavor. Vernaccia di Oristano, according to ancient tradition, is cultivated with high-density plants and very low yields, around 50 hectoliters per hectare. Today, the old bush vine training system coexists with the more modern espalier system, always with few buds per plant, in order to always have high-quality grapes. The late harvest, towards the end of September and the beginning of October, allows for a significant concentration of sugars. After pressing and fermentation, the aging process begins, which allows Vernaccia to develop its particular aromatic profile.

Vernaccia di Oristano DOC ages for several years in oak and chestnut barrels. The small barrels are kept empty to allow the development of the flor, responsible for the typical aromas, which give olfactory and gustatory complexity to the wine. In Vernaccia di Oristano DOC Riserva, aging in barrels can last for over 10 years. The color takes on warm amber tones, the aroma is rich and dense with hints of dried fruit, hazelnuts, and almonds. Finally, the Reserves produced with the Solera method are able to offer emotions that are found only in the great wines of Jerez. To produce this version, the barrels are arranged in the cellar in stacked rows on several levels. When the new wine is poured into the barrels placed at the top, an equal amount passes from the upper barrels to those immediately below. In this way, the wine in the barrels at the base of the pyramid is composed of a blend of different vintages, and each year it regenerates enriching itself with new aromas. We are talking about a wine that has as its basis reserves aged in the Solera for several decades, with vintages that can date back to the early years of the last century. A wine of great character, complexity, and personality, velvety and persuasive, with aromas of toasted fruit, dates, dried figs, chestnut honey. A true sensory experience of great intensity and persistence.

The best Vernaccia di Oristano

Here are the best Vernaccia di Oristano according to Gambero Rosso, either pure or present in a high percentage in the indicated wines, which this year have obtained the Due Bicchieri Rossi, having reached the final during the tastings for the Gambero Rosso 2024 Wine Guide, or the Two Glasses.

Attilio Contini's Pontis 2021 (70% Vernaccia di Oristano and 30% Moscato) is a sweet white (from Vernaccia), but never cloying and with a delicious saline vein, which this year reached the final; very charming, then, is the Vernaccia di Oristano Flor 2019, also very good are the Giganti Bianco 2021 and the Karmis 2022, both blends of 70% Vernaccia di Oristano and 30% Vermentino). 125 years of history for a winery that, since the end of the 19th century, proudly carries on a difficult, little-known tradition, complex to communicate, but with undeniable charm: Vernaccia di Oristano. Here declined in different versions. We are talking about an oxidative wine, intriguing, with a sweet wine olfactory profile, but with a dry and sharp palate with sapidity. Especially in the older versions, both vintage and Solera, every sip is a journey in the Oristano area. The Contini family, however, does not stop here and also has whites, reds, and sparkling wines to its credit, strictly from native grape varieties. A wide range, in short, with many wines that stand out in tastings every year.

• Pontis Bianco da Uve Stramature 2021 - Attilio Contini 
• Vernaccia di Oristano Flor 2019 - Attilio Contini 
• I Giganti Bianco 2021 - Attilio Contini 
• Karmis 2022 - Attilio Contini 

The Q Òrriu on the skins Vernaccia 2022 is one of the wines produced by Quartomoro di Sardegna, a winery born in 2009 but already fully established among the greats. The paternity of Quartomoro, a winery from Oristano, based in Arborea, belongs to Piero Cella, winemaker and vigneron assisted by his wife Luciana and their two sons. The company's motto is: minimal intervention possible, leaving the wide range of wines the opportunity to express themselves. all of character, straightforward, speaking of the terroir through little-known native grape varieties and old vines.

• Q Òrriu sulle bucce Vernaccia 2022 - Quartomoro di Sardegna

A historic company that, in addition to wine, produces liqueurs and distillates of the highest quality. On the oenological front, Vernaccia di Oristano is the flagship, but mention should also be made of some whites and reds produced from the main traditional grape varieties of the island.

• Vernaccia di Oristano Ris. Po Tui 2002 - Silvio Carta