The Vermentino grape, a semi-aromatic white variety, spread from the Iberian Peninsula to Liguria, Corsica, Sardinia, and Tuscany. Vermentino seems to share a not-so-distant kinship with Malvasia, especially the Malvasia of Madeira, from where it may have reached Europe. The resulting wine is yellow with golden reflections, offering a broad and fresh aroma. It is dry, round, warm, delicately aromatic, and capable of ageing in the bottle. Along with Bosco and Albarola, Vermentino is a key component of Sciacchetrà from the Cinque Terre.
Here, we focus on Vermentino cultivated in Liguria, one of the region's most famous grape varieties alongside Pigato and Rossese.
As is well known, Liguria has a unique territorial structure, with vineyards built on terraces or clinging to cliffs by the sea. This makes the use of machinery very difficult, with clear consequences for costs. Despite this, the region produces a significant quantity of wine, considering its geographical challenges, and often of remarkable quality. We are talking about small patches of vineyards, resulting in a very limited cultivated area. This is why Liguria’s wine production is often referred to as heroic viticulture, sustained by skilled winemakers who work with passion and dedication to the land.
Vermentino from the DOC Colli di Luni, Riviera Ligure di Ponente, and Colline di Levanto
Three main designations produce Vermentino in Liguria:
The DOC Colli di Luni, where the grape is vinified as a single variety and grown in the border area between Liguria and Tuscany. It pairs beautifully with fish appetisers and seafood.
Then there is the Vermentino of the DOC Riviera Ligure di Ponente, delicate with fruity but subtle aromas and a light structure. It is excellent as an aperitif or with soups or boiled fish.
Finally, moving northwards, we find the Colline di Levanto, where Luccicante is produced, a Vermentino with a strong aromatic impact that impressed us again this year. It is made by Ca' du Ferrà, run by Davide Zoppi and Giuseppe Luciano Aieta.
The Vermentino Wines from Liguria Awarded Tre Bicchieri
Here are the Vermentino wines from Liguria that received the highest accolade, Tre Bicchieri, in Gambero Rosso’s Vini d’Italia 2025 guide.
The Boboli '23 by Giacomelli, with varietal notes and fresh Mediterranean aromas, satisfies with its complex body and good balance. The work continues with new energy brought in by his son Tommaso. The new label TaoMa – his name in Aramaic – is dedicated to him, a wine made from 100% Vermentino grapes, sourced from a vineyard in the municipality of Luni. This is a structured white, born from a 10-hour maceration in the press, aged on lees with repeated batonnage. It is bottled with a screw cap, a youthful idea for a wine that can be "discovered" in the new tasting room.
The Etichetta Nera '23 by Cantine Lunae Bosoni delivers great emotions, with its intense, almost brilliant colour, herbaceous and Mediterranean scents, and an enveloping palate characterised by great harmony and inviting drinkability. The Bosoni family is always on the move, and following the inauguration of the winery, new plantings highlight its continued growth. The recovery of old terraces has turned into a beautiful new vineyard at about 500 metres altitude in a highly suitable area like Sarticola. This natural amphitheatre has become home to a productive new Vermentino vineyard. The stony soils, caressed by cool winds from the Apuan Alps, create the ideal environment for these grapes.
La Baia del Sole Federici is appreciated for its Vermentino, primarily the Solaris '23, which opens with intoxicating aromas and combines them with a body of good structure and length. The winery is located just a few dozen metres from the ruins of the ancient city of Luni. Among the artefacts found are very heavy and porous cocciopesto amphorae. Luca and Andrea Federici decided to produce Vermentino with organic cultivation methods in the traditional way. The Sol de Lun undergoes long maceration on the skins and a year of ageing in a 15-hectolitre cocciopesto amphora. Currently, production is limited, with plans to increase in the coming years thanks to new organic vineyards.
All our senses are engaged by the emotions triggered by the Luccicante '23 by Ca' du Ferrà, a wine with a strong aromatic impact featuring jasmine notes that open to white fruit, expressing great complexity and pleasant harmony. The work is growing, with many goals spanning production to communication. This meticulous and innovative approach explores new sensory codes. Davide Zoppi and Giuseppe Luciano Aieta, the two young owners, have a futuristic vision for their profession. The winery has launched a new project, the first chapter of a sensory journey dedicated to wine tourists who will embark on a rich emotional experience through the senses.
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