Q&A: Xiaowen Huang

How would you summarise Taiwan as a wine market?

I think the Taiwanese market, the same as markets of many other Asian countries, has developed interestingly thanks to technology, social media, and the young and rich generation. The wealthy (old-money) consumers investing in Bordeaux and Burgundy are still there, but the new, high-tech, young drinkers are more curious about different regions, different types of alcohol in general (so not only wine) with different price points.

What's worth paying attention to is the idea of how wine in the Taiwan market has slowly and gently switched from showing 'social status' to 'lifestyle'. More people start to enjoy wine because they enjoy what they are drinking. It sounds clichéd and normal, yet it wasn't so 20 years ago. As wine wasn't a part of our traditions, it used to be 'a beautiful and expensive decoration' on some important tables, instead of a pleasant element for the right moments. I'd say we are in an era of diversity.

Is the Taiwanese wine market mostly concentrated in Taipei, or is it beginning to spread to other parts of the country?

Taipei is the capital with orthodox training when it comes to wine education, yet the wine market is everywhere in Taiwan. Oddly, the further south you go, the more extreme consumers you may find. On one hand, you find more old-money drinkers, and on the other hand, the more open-minded ones are also in the central and southern cities.

Do you think there is a particular style of Italian wine that really appeals to Taiwanese consumers?

Not really. And people who open wine bottles every day don't drink the same thing every day.

If you had to pick some of your favourite Taiwanese dishes, and Italian wines to pair with them, what would you choose and why?

Italian wines, no matter whether they're red or white, have that particular edge in tannins, savouriness and acidity. Therefore, spicy hotpot and Taiwanese 'ragù' rice are my favourite pairing with Italian wines.

For example, a Serralunga Barolo, within 10 years of age (young), is perfect for spicy Taiwanese dishes because the tannins go so well with the hot-pepper sensation, and the herbal, spicy notes of the wine enhance the roots and dry fruits ingredients of the broth/soup, which are often purchased from Chinese-medicine pharmacy.

Is there a Taiwanese dish that you think it would be difficult to find an Italian wine to pair with?

Of course there are! Taiwanese cooks use strong rice vinegar with garlic as the main sauce for local seafood dishes. That's the occasion to have 58% ABV spirits distilled from rice instead of having wine.

What's a style of Italian wine that you struggle to find in Taiwan that you would like to see imported?

Aged white wine with fine structure, high acidity, and still another 10 years ageing potential. But I guess it's not only in Taiwan where that's not yet seen.

Gambero Rosso will be in Taipei for the Top Italian Wines Roadshow on 3 November. Xiaowen Huang will be co-presenting a series of masterclasses with Vini d'Italia guide curator Marco Sabellico. Further information about the event can be found here.