Piedmontese classics and raw seafood. The unexpected restaurant with a pool in the Langhe

by Roberto Mostini 

The transformation of GrecAle, led by Alessandro Neri and Elisa Migliassi, who moved from Novello to La Morra in 2020, is now fully complete in every aspect. At the very end of a dead-end lane, remote yet close to Barolo, with stunning views of rolling hills and beautiful vineyards, this high-class relais stands. It is here that the protégé of Maurilio Garola of La Ciau del Tornavento, a chef talented both in Piedmontese tradition and seafood, relocated in the midst of the pandemic—though only now has the offering been fully realised, bringing together multiple identities and expanding it completely. And if he had the chance and space, he’d likely add a helipad too.

The new GrecAle with pool and terrace

The old farmhouse has been beautifully restored, with rooms, apartments, spa, solarium, and a small and elegant restaurant dining room, which opens onto a lovely and spacious terrace with views—ideal for moments beyond just lunch. And yes, there’s a pool, very recently built, and pools are rare in the Langhe. In the wine cellar, events and tastings are also held. But the highlight is undoubtedly Alessandro Neri’s “rogue” cuisine, which presents itself in four distinct styles: a menu featuring some unmissable Piedmontese classics; raw seafood—one of the chef’s passions; the fun “tinned” pantry menu; and lastly, the blackboard specials, offering inventive and well-executed dishes. For Neri, zero-kilometre sourcing isn’t necessarily a priority—he cooks with an open mind, free from local constraints. Even at his early days in Novello, he found success with his seafood dishes, which are now prepared with greater maturity and daring. Down below, in his underground lab, he also used to make his own cheeses and charcuterie, but above all, some extraordinary baked goods.

What to eat at GrecAle

A sample menu? You simply must start with an aperitif on the terrace, accompanied by local or international sparkling wines, paired with delicious Cantabrian anchovies or a couple of slices of fine salami. From the kitchen, choosing either from the menu or the always-updated blackboard, you might begin with a crispy breadcrumbed and fried anchovy on a sweet-and-sour Piedmontese giardiniera, a comforting soft-boiled egg immersed in a rich traditional fondue with asparagus and a shower of summer truffle, or intriguing reginette pasta “as if it were a carbonara,” but enriched with egg yolk, lime, and a hint of caviar—for once, not a superfluous touch.

You’re then whisked away to an Eastern-inspired Langhe with a steamed “raviolo” filled with shredded Barolo-braised beef, served in its own Marsala broth. A surprise from the in-house “tins”: delicate snails in a fine tempura, resting on 8-row maize polenta. Then there’s “pit beef” BBQ-style on a salad of seasonal vegetables, with smoked Parmigiano and mustard sauce—an excellent summer alternative to the usual roast beef. Rich and worthy of the Grill Room at the Grand Hotel de Paris, the churrasco de cordero is served with sautéed porcini mushrooms and potatoes. And in season, you can be sure Alba’s white truffles will make an appearance.