In the newly established Matese National Park, a hidden restaurant awaits in a stunning Medieval village

We are in Civita Superiore, a picturesque hamlet of the municipality of Bojano, in the province of Campobasso, in the heart of Molise. Situated at around 717 metres above sea level on Mount Crocella, it overlooks the plain below, offering spectacular views of the Biferno Valley and the Matese mountain range. It is one of the many gems within the Matese National Park, the newly established protected nature reserve (Italy’s 25th), officially created on 22 April 2025 by decree of the Minister of the Environment, following a lengthy bureaucratic process.

Spread across nearly 90,000 hectares between Campania and Molise, encompassing a total of 52 municipalities, this inland area boasts an extraordinary wealth of natural landscapes, history, and gastronomy. Bojano itself, for example, is an ancient town near Lake Biferno, renowned for its dairy production – particularly mozzarella and caciocavallo – thanks to high-quality cattle breeding and rich pastures.

(The Matese – photo Il Crivello)

The hidden restaurant atop a Medieval village in Matese National Park

Back to the topic at hand – and at the very top of Civita Superiore (a cluster of houses and only a handful of residents) – one should not be discouraged by the steep path leading to the summit. It’s well worth the effort to discover one of the iconic figures of the region: Renato Testa, chef and owner of La Risorta Locanda del Castello for the past 27 years. After studying architecture, he decided to follow his true passion and, in 1998, opened the restaurant with his wife in the family’s home.

It’s an intimate and remarkably evocative retreat, with views that more than compensate for the climb to the table.

Testa is a true connoisseur of his region’s products, which he carefully selects to create dishes rooted in tradition but also enriched with original ideas and character. “There isn’t really a defined gastronomic tradition here – Molisan cuisine is essentially modest,” he once told Gambero Rosso. “So it’s better to develop new, more current recipes, also introducing products from other regions,” he explained years ago. “People here rarely go out to eat, and when they do, they want to leave with full bellies and money left in their pockets,” he added at the time.

What you eat at La Risorta Locanda del Castello

It was a bold venture in a very different time, marked by courage, considering the location, the habits (and resistance) of the locals, and the many challenges encountered along the way – a road as winding as the one leading to the restaurant itself.

Yet Renato remains at the forefront, guarding his “fortress” and continuing to amaze both his loyal patrons and first-time visitors with expertly crafted dishes from land and sea. The menu changes virtually every day (booking is essential), and you might come across offerings such as squid with burrata and tomato cream, battered cod with vanilla, dark chocolate and rosemary, risotto with savoy cabbage and Scorzone truffle shavings, or grilled trout stuffed with cheese, eggs and truffle.

The same care goes into the wine selection – not vast, but chosen with heart. As with everything else.

Risorta Locanda del Castello – Bojano (CB) – via Portella, 19 – 347 7778664 – Facebook