In the heart of Mugello there’s a farmhouse restaurant that challenges tourist eateries with creative dishes

by Simone Rosti 

What a lovely surprise Il Ginepraio in Mugello is! Part restaurant, part agriturismo, it has fittingly chosen to call itself an agriristoro. Simone Boni and his brother Lorenzo opened it in 2021 within their agriturismo, Vita Nova, a charming place offering exclusive and atmospheric accommodation, enhanced by an infinity pool overlooking the hills of Mugello.

What’s on the menu

The kitchen has very clear ideas and philosophy, offering a concept rooted in the local area but reimagined through technical skill and playfulness. In a region where standardised menus are everywhere, Il Ginepraio gives you the chance to enjoy excellent raw ingredients from the surrounding area (some coming directly from the agriturismo itself, such as saffron and various herbs), presented in imaginative preparations, with explosions of flavour, creative textures, and irresistible sauce-mopping moments that define many of the dishes.

Chef Emanuele Bavetta, sous chef Marco Muscas, pastry chef Anna Rinieri

The kitchen is helmed by Sicilian chef Emanuele Bavetta (with past experience under Luigi Taglienti and Luigi Pomata), who brings innovation paired with sound judgement and precise execution. In the dining room, alongside brothers Simone and Lorenzo (affable and knowledgeable), is maître Stefano Dreoni, a refined sommelier who has curated a wine list of rare depth and research, especially in the mid-range – for which he deserves applause. In addition to the à la carte menu, diners can choose tasting menus of four or six courses (€55 and €75).

A cuisine of flavours

It starts with a bang: Val d’Arno snails and raw langoustine, bourguignonne sauce, curry and beef jus – a true aesthetic and gustatory camouflage!

Outstanding is the braised oxtail wrapped in a pastry wafer with a disc of sea bream onion and a base of parmesan fondue with truffle mayonnaise. Boldness and intrigue follow with a veal head dish, balanced by a touch of saltiness and freshness from the clam sauce. Another meat dish features a spectacular sweetbread, perfectly grilled (served with a raspberry vinegar salad), which elevates its delicate, non-intrusive succulence to the highest level.

In contrast to certain minimalist trends, we’re then treated to one of the most playful risottos we’ve tasted: cooked in a centrifuged juice of carrot and apricot, with caper yoghurt, powdered burnt lemon, and a splash of whisky – a whirlwind of sweetness, savoury notes, and a touch of acidity.
Next come two spaghetti dishes: one “authentic”, with garlic foam and pigeon stew (so indulgent it’s addictive), and one “fake” – made of squid, with white rabbit ragù and cuttlefish ink sauce. These two dishes make it clear that Bavetta enjoys playing and wants us to have fun too! There’s technique, yes, lots of it – but the smile after mopping up a sauce is worth far more. The meal ends with a comforting Tuscan-style tiramisu, prepared at the table.

In short, this was a dinner full of taste obstacle courses and flavour crossovers – at times seemingly excessive, but always perfectly balanced. Measured sweetness prevailed, like a warm embrace.
We will definitely return to try more dishes!