In Rome, there's a legendary Roman trattoria run by a family of women (where Sergio Leone loved to eat)

by Antonio Scarselli

In the heart of Trastevere since 1935 stands one of the most “Roman of all Roman” eateries. It’s Checco er Carettiere, an authentic, no-frills restaurant that is about to celebrate a major anniversary. Francesco Porcelli—known to all as Checco—was a carter before opening what would become one of the most authentic Roman dining spots in the city. Every evening, around 10 pm, he would load up his cart with empty demijohns and head toward the Castelli hills. There, between Monteporzio, Frascati, and Colonna, he made the rounds of the cellars to collect wine that he would then sell to restaurateurs in Rome early the next morning. It was hard graft, which is why in 1935 he decided to change careers. Together with his wife Diomira, he opened the Osteria del Burino at number 10 Via Benedetta, in the heart of Trastevere. Checco worked the floor pouring wine, Diomira was in the kitchen preparing pasta made of water and flour, some bean soup, tripe, and offal—exactly what Roman tradition dictated and what the hard times demanded. Italy was on the brink of World War II and the capital was suffering poverty like every other city in the “kingdom”. Still, business was good, and Checco and Diomira were happy.

From generation to generation up to today

A few years after the opening came the fateful name change to what we now all know, boldly displayed at the start of the little alleyway. The green sign lights up at dusk, inviting you in to Checco er Carettiere, which in its 90 years of uninterrupted activity has always remained authentic and sincere. An identity untouched by the natural passing of generations: by the mid-1950s, Checco’s son Filippo had taken the reins of the restaurant, and a few years later, it was the turn of his daughters— the third generation —who today run the family restaurant with passion and determination. We’re talking about Susy, Diomira, Laura and Stefania, the latter being the cook many of us have come to know via social media thanks to the beautiful Roman recipes she shares.
"My sisters and I basically grew up here," Stefania tells us. "After school, we didn’t even go home. We’d come straight to the restaurant for a plate of pasta, and as we grew up, we started helping out in the kitchen."

Famous guests and the link with the film world

But often, popping in for lunch or dinner at Checco's could mean brushing shoulders with global celebrities. "My grandfather was a true connoisseur of Lazio wines, something you didn’t often find in osterias back then," Stefania explains. "That won him the friendship of Trilussa, who would often stop by for a glass of wine and a chat." But the list is long, starting with Sergio Leone and Ennio Morricone—classmates of Stefania’s father—who regularly dined at the restaurant. Sergio Leone would pass by daily, had his own table, and lived just a stone’s throw away. It was thanks to these friendships that during the Dolce Vita years and beyond, the osteria on Via Benedetta became the favourite haunt of international film stars passing through Rome.
And yes, it was at Checco’s that a legendary dinner took place—completely by chance and thanks to a few quick phone calls—where Robert De Niro, Muhammad Ali, Sergio Leone, Gabriel García Márquez, and Gianni Minà all ended up at the same table. That photo went around the world, but a framed copy still hangs at Checco er Carettiere, right beside the table where these giants sat. Just beyond, the cart—perhaps less famous than those names, but certainly no less important.

Covid and a major turning point

"2020 was truly a terrible year," Stefania says again, unafraid to admit that during those lockdown days, she saw no alternative but to close the family business for good. But it was her daughter Michela—now the fourth generation at Checco—who changed her mind with the idea of a complete general restyling.
"As soon as the pandemic allowed it, we began internal renovation works on the premises. We changed it, made it more usable, but certainly didn’t turn it upside down." Stefania tells us how she and her sisters were determined to preserve the welcoming soul that has always characterised their restaurant. And indeed, despite the important changes, the atmosphere remains as it once was… as does the menu, which still reflects Checco’s original vision 90 years ago. The great Roman classics, fresh pasta, seasonal artichokes, Checco’s potato omelette—which is in fact egg-free but includes a touch of tomato—and fresh fish, delivered daily from the Roman coast. The wine list is impressive: while showcasing a wide selection of Lazio labels, it features over 350 bottles including a strong representation of natural wines.

Celebrating 90 years and a future yet to be written

"We still haven’t decided what to do for this important milestone—surely we’ll come up with something. But we’ve still got a few months, as the official opening was in October 1935. Summer will inspire us."
Stefania is strong, resolute. The way she speaks and moves shows she’s never been one to sit on her hands, never afraid of hard work. But that tough, unshakable exterior softens a little when we ask a question that touches the heart.
We ask whether she thinks her grandfather Checco would be happy to see what the little restaurant has become today. "We’ve all poured our hearts into this place, and we always will. When I think of my grandfather, I remember that tight hug he’d give me every time we met—it gave me a sense of protection I’ve rarely felt since. Sometimes, when I’m in the kitchen preparing the dishes, I feel like I can still hear him."