In a historic building in Genoa hides a top cocktail bar

by Patrizia Ferlini

The Ligurian ability to reinvent and rework traditional products into something that goes beyond boundaries drawn over centuries is by now well established. A clear example can be found in the new ways agricultural produce is being used in the world of drinks. Basil, chinotto, wild herbs – all transformed to rightfully enter the realm of mixology. There’s a place in Genoa that has chosen to focus on this trait and make Ligurian culture its defining feature. Les Rouges has become a spokesperson for this new renaissance driven by quality and experimentation.

The journey of Matteo Cagnolari

Telling us about this new local cocktail frontier is Matteo Cagnolari, manager of Les Rouges, a Genoese institution in quality mixology. “I started working in hospitality in 2006, in Orlando, Florida, at Walt Disney World. That experience made me fall in love with the industry, and I followed that passion around the world.” In 2015, while working in a Michelin-starred restaurant in Copenhagen, he discovered Les Rouges and was very impressed by the place. “A few months later I decided to move back to Italy permanently, to Genoa, and after a few experiences in small restaurants, I managed to land at Les Rouges. I started out as a waiter, so the whole mixology aspect was new to me and required time and study – which I was more than happy to dedicate. After a couple of years, and another stint in fine dining, I returned, this time as manager.”

Matteo Cagnolari ph Genova Mocktail Week

The Les Rouges team

The main players at Les Rouges are Matteo, head bartender and mixology instructor Pavel Zilbershteyn, and chef Federico Camboni. “Besides us, we’ve got a solid team of enthusiastic young people who we’re sure will make a name for themselves in the years to come. And we can’t fail to mention the three original ‘Rouges’ – Benny, Yonathan and Yoel – the brothers who created the venue in 2013 and believed in us to carry the project forward.” The philosophy behind their work goes far beyond the classic idea of a traditional aperitif. “Even in the name of the venue – ‘Les Rouges – Cucina & Cocktails’ – we’ve always liked the idea of breaking down the typical barriers between the different stages of post-work socialising. Until 8pm, we serve a small aperitif with drinks, usually our homemade long-fermentation pizza. From opening time, guests can order snacks and boards, or proper dishes – meat, fish, vegetarian and vegan options – simple and well made. One of our points of pride is our in-house baking.”

Liguria in a glass

“Our creations are born from a constant desire to try new things, experiment, and exchange ideas among ourselves and with other professionals.” The cocktail list changes four times a year, with a new theme for each edition. “In winter, we focus on tea; now, in spring, it’s flowers. Once we’ve settled on a theme or general direction, anyone can bring an idea – including customers – which we then develop, study, test and balance until we arrive at the finished drink. We believe great ideas can come from anywhere, so we always give them the benefit of the doubt before discarding them.” Among the products featured are Mauro Allara’s Asinello Corochinato, used in their Genovese Spritz, and Mauro Allara’s Blue Ginello, developed in collaboration. Also on the menu: BaSaNotto – a liqueur made from basil, sage and chinotto – as well as Amaro Santa Maria, Amaro Camatti, and liqueurs from Origine and Andrea Bruzzone. “We’re also waiting on ageing trials for Camillo, the moonshine from Sassello – a new and very interesting product.”

Bulginello

A success based on selection and attention to detail

When asked where these combinations come from, Matteo’s response is simple and immediate: “Tasting, tasting, and more tasting. We try everything, always. Trade fairs, tastings, market stalls – every occasion is an opportunity, and every limitation is a challenge. Sometimes we win, sometimes we don’t.” The most successful creation so far has been the Genovese Spritz, made with Corochinato, white wine from Bosoni vineyards in the Colli di Luni, and DOP-certified Genovese Basil extract. The menu features not only Ligurian specialities but also a showcase of Italian excellence. “Other very successful drinks have included Apperò – a sour on the rocks made with Amaro del Capo Riserva Centenario and pear-cinnamon mustard – and A Mi Me Gusta, a twist on the Brandy Crusta. Vecchia Romagna Riserva 3 Botti is an outstanding brandy that holds its own against more famous names, paired with a spicy rose and chilli cordial and orange liqueur.”

Spritz Genovese

Where Genoese mixology stands

“I think we’re in a very interesting phase for local mixology. There’s a strong desire to try new things and experiment; the public is curious and follows us on these explorative journeys. In a relatively compact space like Genoa, there’s an enormous variety of offerings, and every venue has unique traits that make each visit different from the last. After the years of competing for the most generous apericena at the lowest price, we’ve now developed a quality offering at the right price – and a good portion of our clientele seems to wholeheartedly agree with us.”

Les Rouges ph Cleekstudio

A key element of the Les Rouges experience is the building itself. A jewel in the crown of the Rolli Palaces, Palazzo Gio Vincenzo Imperiale showcases all the mannerist splendour of sixteenth-century Genoa. Many small pieces come together to create a journey of excellent drinks, good food, local knowledge and professionalism – a must for anyone wanting to experience the Genoa that keeps tradition alive while looking to the future.