The former food critic who brought authentic omakase to Udine

The great Japanese culinary tradition (like many other international cuisines) has taken root in numerous Italian cities, with outstanding examples even in smaller or provincial contexts, as highlighted in the newly-launched Sushi Guide by Gambero Rosso. If Friuli, with its strong gastronomic heritage, is not usually considered an obvious destination for such cuisine, it’s time to reconsider that view thanks to a restaurant that interprets the food of Japan with respect and orthodoxy. Not far from the centre of Udine, Masato Fukayama and his family have created a place capable of bringing together two very different worlds. Not just any restaurant, but a kind of “one man show” by Chef Masato.

Japan according to Masato

Masato decided to open Yamaneko to offer the people of Friuli a direct encounter with the true gastronomy of his homeland. As he explains: “You come here to have a unique Japanese experience.”

The road wasn’t always easy: “At first, many were skeptical about raw fish, but today many guests show interest in real Japanese cuisine. Some have been to Japan and ask us to prepare dishes they tasted there.”

A family carrying on a tradition

Working alongside Masato is his son Sai, active both in the dining room and in the kitchen. He explains the philosophy of the place: “In Friuli there are no other places offering truly authentic Japanese cuisine. The real thing.”

He also shares the family story: he arrived in Udine from Tokyo in 2006 with his mother Yukiko because of football, while his father stayed in Japan for work. “We liked it here, and in 2010 my father joined us, because my mother had to move to Piedmont for work. He chose this land for the white wine and San Daniele prosciutto, not because I was here,” Sai jokes.

Masato Fukayama has always been passionate about cooking and good food. He worked as a food and wine critic in Japan, as a chef in several restaurants in Udine, and finally as a private chef. Last year, he decided to open a proper restaurant.

The counter and the omakase experience

The heart of Yamaneko is the counter, where Masato prepares every course in front of his guests. The omakase menu varies with the seasons and the day’s availability, featuring traditional recipes from various Japanese regions.

“We want to offer something most people in Friuli don’t know,” he explains.

Local ingredients, Japanese technique

For fish, Masato relies on local fishmongers, and for vegetables he also prefers local produce; some specific ingredients come directly from Japan. The omakase menu is available only by reservation at the counter, while fixed menus (meat, fish, or vegetarian) are offered at the tables.

Sushi, though not the sole focus, is crafted with great precision: rice at the right temperature, balanced seasonings, impeccable cuts. Among the other specialties are tuna tartare with fresh ginger, miso and shiso leaves served with green tea, and yaki sakana sea bass with sesame and miso. The meal ends with a yuzu sorbet and is accompanied by a selection of sake.

An intimate, welcoming atmosphere

Masato, Sai, and Yukiko welcome guests with attentive and warm service. Events, classes, and themed menus complete the experience. The space, intimate and informal, recalls small home restaurants, creating a sense of conviviality. The Fukayama family has made attention to detail its mission, bringing a corner of their world to Friuli.

Yamaneko – Viale Trieste 2, Udine – instagram.com/trattoriayamaneko/