In the eastern part of Trentino, in the upper Primiero Valley, San Martino di Castrozza is a tourist destination in the Dolomites that offers so much in both the summer and winter seasons, starting with a circuit of ski facilities considered among the best in the world.
Among the events to mark in your diary, the first in order of appearance is the Christmas Market, held in Siror from 26 November to 17 December, but the calendar is very full, check the local tourist APT website.
Restaurant. One of the longest-established and most accredited addresses in the town, attached to the family-run 4-star hotel of the same name near the ski lift and overlooking the Pale di San Martino peaks. The ambience is hospitable and soberly elegant, and the cuisine is of a high standard, based on tradition/seasonal creations with successful results, with vegetables and herbs from the kitchen garden as the protagonists, and raw materials as close to zero km as possible. Closing the circle is a selection of wines with a focus on the region but with many other interesting references.
Da Anita – località Prà delle Nasse via Cavallazza, 24 – 0439 768893 – ristorante-da-anita.com
Burger Bistrò 2.0
Sandwich shop. Stefano Fontana is the soul of this place located in the heart of the small village of Fiera di Primiero in the pedestrian area. In addition to being one of the few establishments open almost all year round, it guarantees a tasteful and fun stop, with tasty sandwiches in many variations (and with different types of bread), the lowest common denominator being the quality of the ingredients. Between the burgers (accompanied by “real” fries), club sandwiches, tasty stuffed potatoes, dishes of the day and desserts (try the cheesecake) there is certainly plenty to choose from.
Burger Bistrò 2.0 – località Fiera di Primiero via G. Garibaldi, 18 – 0439 1998622-349 2186495 – Facebook
Restaurant. For many years on the cutting edge, in a characteristic mountain chalet directly on the ski slopes, this is one of the most reliable addresses in the area, thanks also to careful family management. In cosy and comfortable surroundings, dominated by a beautiful typical tiled stove, the sight and taste buds are satisfied with dishes made with well-chosen ingredients. In addition, fresh pasta, preserves, desserts and gelato are all home-made. Reservations recommended. Eight comfortable rooms available for lodging.
Malga Ces – località Malga Ces – 0439 68223 – malgaces.it
La Mia Enoteca
Wine Bar. You will find this sign in the pedestrian area, near the church, a nice surprise for lovers of good drink. Stop off here for a glass of the right wine (including bubbly), an aperitif or something more substantial, choosing from platters of cold meats and salami from Primiero, platters of Primiero cheeses, smoked salmon trout with croutons, Tuscan liver pâté with croutons, anchovies from the Cantabrian Sea, focaccia, toast, sandwiches, polenta with various toppings. To close on a sweet note, a good slice of strudel.
La Mia Enoteca – piazzetta La Crodaroi, 3 – 351 5042994 – Facebook
La Pajara Gourmet at Hotel Castel Pietra
Restaurant. It is a successful play of balances that achieved by Renzo (from Apulia) and Sonja (from Trentino) in this cosy hotel table. The presence of the Puglia cuisine is evident right from the name (pajara is a typical dry-stone construction from Salento), but the culinary proposal does not focus on either of the two regions, whose flavours instead coexist harmoniously in an offer in which local traditions and seafood preparations are elaborated with touches of flair and refined combinations. For a less demanding stop there is La Pajara Bistrò. Well-stocked wine cellar.
La Pajara Gourmet dell'Hotel Castel Pietra – frazione Transacqua via Venezia, 28 – 0439 763171 – lapajaragourmet.it
Osteria Pan & Vin
Trattoria. Simplicity, warmth and good food. A restaurant with a modern slant that puts on the table successful reinterpretations of Trentino tradition alongside dishes in which the Tuscan accent resonates, using mostly meat. The menu embraces different suggestions: “maccheroncini ceci guanciale e rosmarino”, chickpea amnd pork pasta; “caserecce di farro con ragù bianco di coniglio” rabbit ragù pasta, “venison ossobuco in Pinot nero with polenta”, “carré di cinghiale con hummus di castagne” wild boar with chestnut cream, tiramisù. There is something for everyone, with reasonable prices. The wine list is good.
Osteria Pan & Vin – località Siror via Cismon, 22 – 0439 762114 – osteriapanevin.it
Pizzeria. Behind this sign is the passionate management of the Scalet family. You come here above all to enjoy one of the best pizzas in town, prepared with a long rising dough and selected toppings. In addition to the classic margherita, marinara and quattro stagioni, there are pizzas garnished with local ingredients, for example the Primierota (with mozzarella, wild boar soppressa, chanterelles and melty cheese flakes). Raclette on reservation. Food and wine specialities can be purchased at the adjacent La Stua shop.
Sass Maor – via Passo Rolle, 30 – 0439 68340 – Instagram
Restaurant. Very busy, especially in the evenings, which requires a reservation, it is a cosy, warm-hearted restaurant with something to please everyone. For an unusual experience we recommend the cheese fondue, otherwise mixed platters, dumplings, tagliatelle with venison ragout, the Stube platter (with Tosèla cheese, sausage, mushrooms and polenta). Delicious sweet ending with chocolate fondue or other homemade desserts. On reservation you can order fondue chinoise (meat or game) and pierrade. To drink craft beers and mostly regional wines.
La Stube – via Val di Roda, 2 – 0439 768825 – ristorantelastube.it