Diego Rossi of Trippa opens a new osteria: what you can eat at Nino Osteria con Cucina in Milan

"Projects don’t come about just because you have the ideas, but because you have the right person." Speaking are Enricomaria Porta, Josef Khattabi and Diego Rossi—the magic trio who brought to life Osteria Alla Concorrenza, a Milanese stronghold of conviviality and rediscovered time, where glasses and small plates spin swiftly. The three are ready to launch again, this time with Marco Marini, a self-styled cuciniere (cook), who takes a leading role in this new venture after having been involved “from day minus one, even before the opening” at Concorrenza in Via Melzo.
Just a stone’s throw from Porta Venezia, the street has become a district of good drinking and eating, full of venues like Kanpai by Josef Khattabi, part of the intricate proliferation of culinary offshoots and connections developed by the trio, alongside Trippa (which just turned 10) and Frangente.

Nino Osteria con Cucina in Milan

This time they’re moving just a bit further out—only five minutes—to a slightly more residential area to open Nino Osteria con Cucina. Nino, as in Nino Bixio, after whom the street is named. A name that resonates with a familial spirit, true to the trio’s identity, always averse to unnecessary formality and instead focused on building projects with substance and the right atmosphere: lively, warm, and well-considered.

Here, the setting changes: the reference is no longer 1950s Italy, but rather the space age of the 1970s, with a bold chromatic imprint that developed from the boiserie: “which,” they say, “was once the catwalk for a fashion show; maybe we’ll hang some photos from that show somewhere.”
About thirty seats are available, between tables and places at the large counter that opens on one side to the open kitchen and on the other to a large piece of furniture: “The visual effect is more like a bookcase than a bar shelf.” On the shelves are glasses, vases, toys, and many vinyl records—a lifetime collection of Enricomaria Porta—along with the speakers from the stereo system (but don’t call it a listening bar!).
These objects reinforce the sense of an intimate space that tells the stories of those who live in it.

The cuisine at Nino

This time, they’ve added one more piece compared to Concorrenza: a real kitchen, which could be seen as an upgrade from the one in Via Melzo. As there, the menu is composed mainly of dishes and small plates for sharing, around fifteen offerings that change often depending on inspiration and market availability—perfect as starters or to accompany a glass.
To these are added a couple of first courses (both fresh and dry pasta) and three mains: one vegetarian, one meat, and one fish-based—especially lake fish.

The rice on call is an extra dish that appears by surprise, at the discretion of Marini, who works in harmony with Diego Rossi to craft this à-la-minute menu that tells the story of his roots and experiences in the world of gastronomy (including stints at D’O by Davide Oldani and Arzak in San Sebastian), yet remains firmly anchored in Italian style, the land, and traditional regional cuisines.
The values are those we’ve already come to know in their other venues—attention to raw materials and producers, both in what’s served on the plate and what’s poured in the glass.
We’re in the realm of Enricomaria Porta, who has put together a wine list of over a thousand labels to start: “Nino shares the cellar of the Osteria, but the goal is to have a more local-focused offering compared to Concorrenza, which right now is very concentrated on French wines.”
Alongside the wine, there’s a draught pilsner—the Tipopils from Birrificio Italiano—and three prebutch (pre-batched) cocktails: Americano, Negroni and Lavorato Secco, a declared tribute to Camparino (with Zucca rhubarb), where Marco once worked.
The rest is still to be defined: “Venues are built over time,” comments Diego Rossi. Also because, “You can deliver 80% of the result, but the rest comes from the customers.”

Nino Osteria con cucina – Milano – via Nino Bixio 47 – 0287177919 – Instagram

Photos by Stefania Zanetti and Matteo Bellomo, Savour duo