The green heart of Italy, Umbria, is home to a 128-square-kilometre body of water: Lake Trasimeno, a destination for tourists from all over the world. The fourth largest lake in the country, it is an unmissable stop for those seeking a short break — perhaps staying in a farmhouse — or for those looking for a few days of summer relaxation away from the crowded seaside resorts.
Along the lake’s perimeter lie a series of ancient villages, the most famous of which are Castiglione del Lago, Panicale, Magione and Montebuono (where tasting the famous torta al testo is a must). Not to be missed is also Passignano sul Trasimeno, a small town from which one can reach Isola Maggiore. Together with Isola Polvese and Isola Minore — today uninhabited and not accessible — it forms the group of three natural islands of the lake.
A stop on the only inhabited island of Trasimeno
Isola Maggiore, compared to Polvese – the largest – is the least visited, despite being the only inhabited one (with only nine residents). It has great charm. It can be reached by a small ferry from Passignano or Tuoro in less than half an hour, crossing the lake. Despite the heat, the best advice is to sit on the top deck of the ferry (with a hat and water bottle!) rather than inside, in order to enjoy the landscape to the full. Isola Maggiore is relatively small, and its perimeter can be walked in about half an hour. Starting on foot from the little square next to the ferry landing, you can proceed in only two directions, either right or left.
Borgo Isola Maggiore del Trasimeno
Heading left, the first stop is the Casa del Capitano del Popolo, where those who were to hold the office of Captain of the Municipality of Perugia resided during the summer. Walking through the narrow streets of the village dotted with low stone houses, you reach the Lace Museum, where you can admire the creations of Irish lace, an ancient tradition of the island. The walk continues through unspoilt nature, until you reach, after a small climb, the Church of San Salvatore. For the more “sporty”, a steep climb leads to the Church of San Michele Arcangelo where, after visiting it, you can refresh yourself at the nearby communal fountain and recover on a bench in the cool shade of the trees. Continuing along the island’s perimeter, after a small stony path, you come across the chapel where Saint Francis of Assisi stopped for Lent in 1211. Continuing further, you return to the starting point in the little square.
Where to eat and drink on Isola Maggiore of Trasimeno
After the tour of monuments and natural beauties – from above, before reaching the Church of San Michele, you can enjoy a breathtaking view over the lake – a coffee break is a must. You can sit at the tables of Bar La Maggiore to enjoy the cool shade from the sun, just behind the ferry landing, and listen to the lady of the bar tell stories of how the nine residents live, of their small private boats that they use from Isola Maggiore to reach Tuoro, where they park them and then take their cars – kept in the Trasimeno town – to move around and do their shopping. When lunchtime comes, you can try, in one of the very few local restaurants, the fagiolina del Trasimeno, a typical legume of the area and a Slow Food Presidia product. When the heat is intense, while waiting for the ferry back to Passignano, you can enjoy an ice cream or a cold beer sitting on the wooden benches of the bar in the square.
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A little journey to the island of Trasimeno inhabited by only nine people
