The White of the Year for Gambero Rosso's guide Vini d'Italia 2024
For White of the Year we once again emphasize the extraordinary vocation of Collio, birthplace of world-class whites. Hillside viticulture - the name itself says it all, Collio reminds the world colle which means hill - and borderline viticulture, home to some of the country's most inspired, stubborn and talented winemakers. The choice fell on a Chardonnay, which blindly many would not take as such, simply because the terroir expresses itself with disruptive force: the ola went off as we tasted it blindly, sketching a flavor parabola so compelling that it requires a built-in gps. Oslavia's savory grit and sartorial use of different woods for fermentation and maturation, as well as long aging in steel, subtly remind us that Chardonnay is one of the world's greatest grape varieties, interpreted here by Marko and Boris Primosic. Many Italian whites age better than many emblazoned reds; that will also be the case with this 2018 Reserve.
WHITE OF THE YEAR
Score: 98/100
Collio Chardonnay Riserva 2018 Primosic
Marko and Boris Primosic run the company founded in 1956 by their father Silvestro. Here a considerable number of family wineries have written and write the history of Collio. Ancestral techniques in winemaking, derived from ancient cross-border traditions, are widespread, involving long macerations on the skins especially, for Ribolla Gialla. For us, the real standout is the Chardonnay Riserva '18: it has a ripe and spicy touch on the nose that is nothing short of fascinating, between dried fruit and soft toastiness, while on the palate it flaunts a portentous depth of flavor. It has flavor, savory texture and endless persistence. Our White of the Year pairs well with white meats and spicy dishes. And it is a candidate to be uncorked nimbly in 10-15 years.
Wines were rated by the guide's editors Vini d’Italia, Giuseppe Carrus, Gianni Fabrizio and Marco Sabellico and by the deputy editors William Pregentelli e Lorenzo Ruggeri
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