When you think of Valpolicella, and Lugana especially, one of the first names that comes to mind is Zenato. The historic winery founded by Sergio in the 1960s is today run by his children Nadia and Alberto, who carry on their father’s work with the same enthusiasm. 100 hectares, divided between Lugana and Valpolicella, constitute the winery’s productive heart, while the Santa Cristina cellar represents its brain. A large producer, Zenato has, nonetheless, stayed true to the two territories, interpreting them consistently and with an awareness of the times. The Lugana Sergio Zenato ’18 is excellent. Released three years after vintage, it offers up complex and multifaceted aromas, with ripe yellow fruit accompanied by notes of dried flowers and delicate shades of oak, while its mineral component is still waiting to take its course. In the mouth it’s generous, sapid, supported by Turbiana’s trademark acidity. As for their Valpolicella reds, we appreciated the compactness of the Ripassa ’17, a wine that, year after year, never fails to impress.