In recent years, Giancarlo Moretti Polegato has given a decisive boost to the family business. He’s expanded the estate considerably such that today it extends into the heart of Treviso’s sparkling wine production zone, in Valdobbiadene, Asolano and Montello, but also reaches the high Friuli plains near Spilimbergo. Several hundred hectares give rise to a range that centers on bubbly, but there’s no lack of excellent still wines characterized by varietal fragrance and dynamic flavor. The star performer is, once again, the Cartizze La Rivetta, the 2020 version of which put in a classy performance. On the nose, white fruit is embellished by fresh flowers and citrus fruits. In the mouth, it shows impressive sapidity, coming through lean and crisp and closing on a note of bitter almond. In short, it’s a marvel, and in our opinion it’s also Italy’s Sparkler of the Year.