In Alto Adige, every year we witness the birth of small wineries that abandon the work of selling their grapes so as to start their own businesses. The resulting ranges are often limited in terms of quantity but of great qualitative value. In this respect, Florian Unterthiner's winery is exemplary. The vineyards unfold in Ritten, where hot summer days are suddenly cooled by the evening breezes that descend down off the Eisack Valley, allowing the grapes to ripen with richness and fragrance. Conditions that bring fully to light the finesse and depth of the grüner veltliner grape, which at Unterthiner achieves notable peaks of excellence. On the nose, its aromas open soft, almost hidden, but then an intense, smoky note is unleashed, gradually leaving more and more space for notes of white fruit and flowers. In the mouth it impresses for its firmness, succeeding in the difficult task of combining richness and gustatory tension. We also appreciated the original Kerner, which plays on vibrant mineral notes.