Carlo Venturini, together with his wife, Alessandra, began his adventure with Monte dall’Ora in the late 1990s. He quickly managed to carve out an identity, one wrought of organic viticulture and great respect for the environment. In the cellar his approach is never invasive, making for a style that’s true to tradition while clearly looking to the future. A few hectares of the area’s historic grapes, cultivated on the hills of Castelrotto and San Giorgio, give rise to characterful, complex wines. The Valpolicella San Giorgio Alto ’17 is not only a great wine, but suggests a very interesting direction for the typology. It sheds its superstructures (due to grape drying) and finds a new point of balance, where the spicy, wild fruit freshness that’s typical of the traditional grapes used develops on a lean, taut palate of superb finesse. What is striking is its harmony, on a more subtle register here than in the past, the result of quality viticulture and great sensitivity in the cellar.