Only the course of the Piave River stands between the Prealps and Montello, an outlying hilly district north of Treviso. Here (in Venegazzù to be precise) the Palla family’s winery has been operating for over half a century, drawing on the warm climate of the plains and cool night breezes coming in from the north. Their vineyards, which enjoy some of the territory’s most prestigious positions, host Bordeaux varieties, complemented by the inevitable Glera and Manzoni Bianco. This year saw a lineup reduced to the bare minimum, but what a Capo di Stato! The 2017 version of this historic wine (which owes its name to Charles De Gaulle, a famous admirer), put in a performance for the ages. Indeed, you can’t help but imagine the wonderment of the French head of state at its tasting many years ago. Aromatically it centers on fruit (never entirely dominant) accompanied by notes of medicinal herbs and a vegetal nuance that lends freshness and character. In the mouth it’s full but not powerful, the palate lengthening supported by acidity and pleasantly rough tannins.