When we think of Bardolino, our thoughts immediately turn to the hills that surround the eastern shore of Lake Garda, sweet and caressed by the sun. Matilde Poggi leads her winery in the northernmost part of the appellation. The landscape and climate are harsher here, but the gravelly soils and the cool breezes of Valdadige confer aromatic clarity and gustatory tension to the grapes. The rest is done by Matilde, who’s adopted an organic approach to cultivation and brings great sensitivity to her work. The Traccia di Bianco ’19 is a monovarietal Garganega that leaves its mark. A bit hazy to the eye, the nose is striking for its explosion of ripe white fruit accompanied by smoky notes and dried flowers. In the mouth it’s full, decidedly sapid and supported by a marked acidity, proving crisp and plucky. The Traccia di Rosa, a Chiaretto di Bardolino that’s released a year after harvest, also delivers, standing out for its harmony and tension.