The large winery headed by the Cesari family has two production sites and covers four appellations. Native grapes, which have never retreated (despite the encroachment of international varieties) combine for wines of extraordinary character. Bardolino and Valpolicella reds, naturally, are interpreted with an eye towards complexity and tension rather than power, while Lugana and Custoza whites feature a style geared towards varietal fragrance and pleasant drinking. The grapes for the Amarone Bosan ’12 come from hillside vineyards in the Classico zone. It’s a reserve that offers up vibrant notes of super-ripe fruit, fine herbs and forest undergrowth, while in the mouth it’s generous and dense in tannins, with nice progression. The interesting Ripasso Mara ’18 features a compact aromatic profile dominated by notes of fresh fruit, sensations that reemerge on the palate, where the wine is energetic, though without renouncing tension and suppleness, making for a harmonious, taut drink.