Cousins David Sterza and Paolo Mascanzoni oversee a winery that perfectly represents the emancipation that has swept Valpolicella in recent decades. The pergola-trained vineyards that rise up the hill, supported by the traditional ‘marogne’ (stone walls), are dedicated to the area’s historical grapes, while in their Casterna cellar nothing is left to chance, making for a range that combines richness of fruit with the grapes’ innate tension and suppleness. Their range has proven increasingly convincing, combining character and depth with the technical precision for which they’ve long been known. A splendid Amarone ’17 redolent of ripe cherry finds in the thrust of aromatic herbs, undergrowth and spices a burst of freshness, sensations that reemerge on the palate, where the wine brings together power and suppleness. The Valpolciella Superiore ’18 also delivers, playing on fruit and a generous, progressively unfolding palate.