The Vitrarolo 23, from a red grape variety once nearly lost and revived through a Sicilian regional project, takes its name from its glasslike canes that snap with a vitreous sound. It opens with aromas of cherry, gooseberry, ginger, pepper, and Mediterranean scrub, sensations that translate into a fresh, pervasive palate rich in pulp, with close-knit yet supple tannins and a pleasantly sapid finish.