This is the exact opposite of what you may expect from a luxury hotel restaurant. Flavours are astounding, with incisive contrasts, experimental approach and curiosity for fermentation. Merit for this goes to Aniello Turco and to Four Seasons Hotel in Beijing, for years invested in rare gastronomical sensibility. Nello, the Neapolitan chef born in 1987, possesses the open mindedness of the well-travelled, skills perfected in the Nordic kitchens of Noma, and worked under Ducasse and Beck. The venue is slightly over-the-top lavish in its decor, but dishes boast great character. Among the classics in the excessively ample menu is the risotto, we tasted the pizzaiola version, with the bold acidity of the tomato is balanced by the Alaskan black cod with fermented soy: a dish is sharp and intense. Sweet endings shine thanks to the four-star light and fragrant Chiacchiere Napoletane.