Volcanic, elegant and glamorous: Rolly Pavia is a Mexico City D.F. legend. He left Italy with his father Angelo when he was just 17, and in time has built a veritable restaurant empire in Mexico. L’Osteria del Becco has been the first one in town – mind you, not truly an informal osteria type restaurant in the elegant Polanco neighbourhood – boasting a unique wine caveau, as one of the most precious wine collections in the world. Only Italian wines count 40,000 labels with incredibly deep vintages, from legendary reserves of Biondi Santi from the Fifties, to post-WWII Monfortino and many other treats made by the best Italian wine makers, in vintages that are hard to find even in Italy. This is our Wine List of the Year. The wine is best enjoyed alongside the cuisine of Juliàn Martinez. His style is classic with many northern Italian specialties. Think robiola ravioli dusted with crunchy toasted almonds or risotto with porcini mushrooms and fresh truffles and rigatoni with lamb. The service matches the context and the high prices. With prior reservation is possible to eat directly in the charming wine cellar.