The atmosphere, which features a large fireplace (that provides heat in the colder months) and ceilings with wooden beams, aptly introduces the diner to the style of this well-established restaurant, long a bedrock of quality and taste. The family style of management is also reflected in the cuisine: traditional regional dishes that are open to the occasional new spin on a classic recipe. There's fried dumpling with stracchino and mortadella, toasted bread with creamed cod, bigoli in salsa, baked San Martino goose with apples, plums and chestnuts, pumpkin mousse and amaretti biscuits. The wine list pairs well with the food on offer, highlighting regional producers without ignoring the rest of Italy. Friendly, attentive service.
The best trattorias/bistrots are marked with 1,2,3 shrimps according to their quality grades.