An ultra-centenary story of hosts and traditional cuisine that has always been managed by the women of the house, in what was once a mule track. Forest, vegetable garden, farmhouse, stable and water are the suppliers of a very rich map, where the vastness is synonymous with quality and generous portions. For antipasto there’s cured meats, an assortment of cold and hot plates, pickled vegetables, fish crudités. This is followed by dried, fresh and stuffed pasta, and dishes of beef, veal, rabbit, porcini: raw, barbecued, fried, braised in tomato with sage, and also Creole-style. And many daily specials on the blackboard. Book ahead.