Once upon a time ... Cera may have a long, glorious history, but it has since revamped and relaunched. Now, more than ever, the restaurant is seizing the moment. The fresh, welcoming dining room, the veranda. Wide-open spaces, a quiet atmosphere accentuated by the "light-footed" and young wait staff (but extremely on the ball). And, in the kitchen, a not-ostentatious cuisine prevails, the result of the knowledge and thoughts of a chef and owner who is as cultured and attentive as he is likely to shun the limelight. Influences come from throughout the region, from the relaxed Veronese countryside to the seaside, by way of a series of mediations that, nevertheless, express the flavors of Veneto, a large territory where the Mediterranean makes its presence felt. The cold spaghetti with stargazer, prawns, Sicilian pistachio sauce and capers is a delicious and perfect example. Among their tributes to local gastronomy (the Laguna and the "risotto di go"), the amberjack with grilled beans draws on a revived, amusing combination of ice cream with salted honey, sea water and chamomile. To accompany it all there's a rich, thoughtfully constructed, dynamic and well-managed wine cellar. In short, a rediscovery. We'll be looking forward to further, noteworthy achievements.