Scents of home and simple, traditional gestures: Angelini is a sure thing in Los Angeles since 2001. Gino Angelini, born near Rimini, has created a reliable, solid osteria, well supplied with top Italian ingredients and a careful selection of local products. Like any trattoria that knows its stuff, meals start with an antipasto board that includes prosciutto di Parma, mortadella and burrata. Pasta is made in-house and features pumpkin-filled tortelli and generous portions of of lasagna verde. The garganelli alla bolognese ragout couldn’t be more authentic. Among main courses, go for the grilled swordfish with rapini and sun dried tomatoes. The wine list is head and shoulders above the usual Italian trattoria, with skillful choices of Italian labels, some American and French bottles, plus a delicious Riserva section.