The pappardelle with ragù will make you sit up and take notice—they are so true to the original archetype: full-bodied, comforting, and rich. They stand in robust contrast to the lightness of the crab and vegetable salad, the refreshing quality of the asparagus, or the delightful *vignarola* (spring vegetable stew) served as a soup and scented with orange. While some dishes feature subtle, cross-cultural influences, the heart of this establishment remains deeply rooted in the Italian Peninsula. The wine selection is excellent, with an undisguised preference for natural wines.