Paolo Clemente is the soul of Vallisassoli, a small winery in San Martino Valle Caudina. They only produce one wine, the 33/33/33, a blend of equal parts greco, fiano, and coda di volpe. The grapes are sourced from a one-hectare, 30-year-old vineyard. Everything about it is authentic, unembellished: sensations of mustard seed, yellow flowers, thyme, smoked citrus, and tea leaf unfold on a vigorous, saline, and spirited palate.