Classic pizzeria in the Bixiga neighborhood. Try scoring a table here at 8 p.m. on a Sunday and you’ll understand why this is the number one pizzeria in Brazil. Variations on excellent flying squid dishes to start, and traditional pizzas cooked in the wood-burning oven, such as pizza Margherita, Napoli and Marinara, plus excellent calzones. Finally, the buckwheat pastiera, prepared according to an original recipe from 1958, is baked here every day. For refreshments, there’s wine and some simple local beer.