It would not be surprising if, on entering, instead of patrons gathered here from all over Milan and the rest of Italy (thanks to high speed trains and the proximity to the Centrale station) one would find this place full of railroad workers, perhaps in vintage uniforms. The environment has not changed since this was the after-work cantine and the annexed union HQ, still exuding that old time scent of socialism and workers’ solidarity of times past. And reading the menu quickly and without thinking too much about it, even the dishes and ingredients, like the working class mentioned above, seem to have changed much in the meantime. “El less”, the archi-classical boiled pork cheek and tongue served with sauces; the cassoeula (uberlocal Milan dish); the busacca (i.e. Milanese tripe); tongue; snails with white polenta… Tradition in continuity, with no evident cuts, and mostly “peasant” yet using extraordinarily refined materials. The wine front is in serene harmony.