The format that Ligurian host Roberto Costa (that explains the RC) has developed appeals to instinct and belly, with a menu that makes you hungry just reading it. Cheeses and salumi (cured meats) come directly from small Italian producers. Fassona Piemontese beef is the star of the show – raw, sliced, as steak – but there’s also a delightful choice of cucina povera dishes, the famed fifth quarter, the quinto quarto, as Italians refer to organ meats and lesser bits – a rarity on the Italian scene in Britain. We found coda alla vaccinara (oxtail) as well as tripe alla romana (with tomato, mint and pecorino cheese). Side dishes make up for any guilty meaty feelings and a Ligurian-style oven turns out focaccia. Besides South Kensington, opened in 2012, Roberto has opened many locations in town (including a branch in Milan) keeping a solid and consistent quality.