A corner of Italian simplicity on Lincoln Square. Due Lire is an unfussy trattoria serving generous, hefty and affordable dishes. Start with fried calamari or cavatelli that reveal Massimo Di Vuolo’s roots in Campania. Or choose gnocchi with an oxtail ragout sauce and grilled chicken for a main dish, Mezzi Rigatoni al pesto di zucchine, brasato or sassicc’ e friarielli. The atmosphere is lively and the service speedy. We like the decision to feature less-known denominations of wine – the list is not enormous, but the choices are interesting and prices less formidable.